Dogs will have their first estrous (reproductive or heat) cycle when they reach puberty. A dog's heat time or ‘’heat’’ is a female dog's rutting season, a time in which a female dog can become pregnant if it is allowed to mate with a male dog. Male dogs don’t have heat time and once they become sexually mature they can produce offspring at any time.

When is the rutting season?

On average, puberty (or sexual maturity) is reached at about 6-12 months of age, but this can vary by breed. Smaller breeds tend to have their first estrous cycle at an earlier age, while large and giant breeds may not come into heat for the first time until they reach eighteen months to two years of age. Differences between breeds are quite big - sometimes a dog can be almost two years of age before the first heat starts.

During rutting season, a female dog's behavior can change. They can be tired, in a world of their own, more restless than normal, bark more frequently, become a picky eater and when outside be especially interested in other dogs and tempting smells. They can also pee indoors even if out of character for them - the dog could during this time be subject to more time outdoors than usual. All changes in behavior are completely normal and usually the strongest changes happen during the first heat.

How long do they last?

The rutting season lasts approximately a month at a time. There are three different stages: preheat, heat and post-heat. In between heats is a rest period during which a dog cannot become pregnant. The duration of the rest period is typically six months, but it differs a lot between different dog breeds.

The first stage of the rutting season is pre-heat, which lasts from three days to about two weeks. During this period the dog’s genitals swell, the follicles develop and the bleeding related to the heat begins from the dogs vulva. It’s very individual how strong the bleeding is - in some it is barely noticeable and in others there is more mess. At this point male dogs are already interested in females, but females don’t let males get too close and reject the males attempts to mate. An unneutered male and a female experiencing preheat should not be left alone together because it is not entirely impossible that the male should impregnate the female. The female should for the entirety of the heat be kept away from unneutered males to prevent an unwanted pregnancy.

The actual heat lasts about a week. During this time the female is very submissive, and pregnancy is extremely likely. The female can be very interested in males at this time. At this stage pregnancy is very likely and if your intention is to breed puppies this is the time for it.

The last stage is post-heat. At this stage the swelling and bleeding slowly pass. During post-heat the female will no longer let the male close and reject all her suitors. The female can be more tired, but this is normal. On the other hand, if the dog starts licking more than usual, drinking more, peeing more or has higher temperature at worst they could have a uterine infection. If you suspect your dog has a uterine infection you must contact a vet posthaste. A uterine infection requires veterinary care.

If your dog has become pregnant during heat, they shall give birth 58-72 days after conception. If the dog hasn’t become pregnant it is possible that the dog can be subject to a false pregnancy. During a false pregnancy the dog's own body tricks them into thinking they are pregnant. The false pregnancy passes eventually and usually there is nothing to worry about. During a false pregnancy a female dog can carry toys more lovingly and make them a nest. The female might also produce milk, but the false pregnancy passes on its own when the aftereffects of the heat wear off.

During the rest period the dog’s hormone functions are normal and the dog cannot get pregnant until the next heat.

If you have no intention of letting your female dog have puppies, you can take them to the vet and have them sterilized. After sterilization the dog will no longer experience rutting season.

FINNERO products for heat

FINNERO heat pants are washable diapers (“panties”) for dogs in heat. It is put on the dog so that your surfaces and interior textiles are protected from the bleeding in your home and on the go. The heat panties also work with urinary incontinence for neutered females or elderly dogs.

If you have a female dog, it is recommended you get the heat pants early so the dog can get used to them before the heat. By putting the heat pants on the dog for a little while at a time and rewarding them the heat will pass without any problems.

See FINNERO heat pants here >

It isn’t great when your male dog starts marking their territory with pee. But why on earth do they do it? Do they pee everywhere for no reason, to pass time or could it be for some other reason?

Housebreaking your dog

If a puppy has not been housebroken, you cannot expect them to be house trained when they are adults. House training your puppy is the first thing you should teach them.

Patience and consistency will be rewarded when teaching your puppy where it is appropriate for them to relieve themselves. Take your puppy outside frequently—at least every two hours—and immediately after they wake up, during and after playing, and after eating or drinking. For instance, smaller breeds have smaller bladders and higher metabolisms and require more frequent trips outside. If your dog was not house trained when they were a puppy they can take longer to be housebroken.

Separation anxiety

Separation anxiety or other similar behavioral problems can also be the reason for the dog peeing inside the home, especially if the problem only occurs when the dog is home alone. Fortunately, there are solutions to handling a dog with behavioral problems, so it is not completely impossible to completely get rid of separation anxiety over time.

Enough time outdoors

Does your dog get out often enough to relieve themselves? Depending on the dogs age, their personality and the length of the walks, the appropriate amount of time spent outdoors varies, but either way your dog should be allowed outdoors at least three times a day and preferably more often. A dog’s retention ability is not limitless, so if your dog does pee indoors especially near the front door, you should make sure your dog has enough opportunities to relieve themselves.

The lovely girl dog next door

A dog’s sense of smell is known to be unparalleled. Usually this is a good thing, but it also has its downsides. If your male dog has caught a whiff of a female dog during one of their walks or otherwise it will make their head spin. When this happens, a male dog can start to mark his territory -including indoors. The love-longing male dog can also be more restless and eat poorly.

Health reasons

Whatever the reason for marking their territory you should always rule out the possibility of illness. If the dog is drinking more than usual, they will also pee more. Continuous drinking can be a sign of illness and you should sooner rather than later take your dog to the vet.

Urinary tract problems such as urinary tract infections, continence problems that come with old age, congenital malformations and other ailments that a dog can't do anything about always require the help of a veterinarian.

Old smells

It's critically important that you truly neutralize and remove the odors from the pee or poop first, before cleaning, shampooing, or steaming your floors and carpets. Miss this odor-neutralizing step and the lingering odor will keep your pup coming back for more! Try using products for sale in pet stores meant specifically for odor removal.

Don’t punish your dog

If your dog is peeing indoors, you must remind yourself they are not intentionally trying to annoy you. A dog lives in the moment and behaves according to their instincts - marking their territory with pee is one of its natural functions

House train your dog patiently and if you're struggling to train them ask the help of a professional.

FINNERO products to the rescue!

FINNERO male belt / male wrap is needed when a male dog marks furniture, curtains, rugs, etc. This can lead to both financial and unhygienic problems, not to mention the resentment that results. The male belt is a belt-shaped, easy-to-wear male protector. Most dogs stop marking when the male belt is on when they notice that there is no sign.

See the products >

Urinary incontinence is a fairly common problem in dogs. It is different from marking, as incontinence is involuntary urination, meaning the dog is likely unaware of the issue. We have written a separate blog about marking, which you can find here >

Urinary incontinence can occur in dogs of any age, but it is most common in middle-aged and older dogs. It can affect both males and females, but it is most frequent in spayed, large female dogs.

The problem is usually noticed when the dog is sleeping. Urine may leak when the dog is in a deep sleep or when it gets up from lying down. It could be a tiny drop of urine on the floor occasionally, but it can also be more severe, causing almost the entire bladder to empty at once. But what on earth causes this?

There can be many reasons for involuntary urinary incontinence. Medical reasons may stem from abnormalities in the parts of the brain and spinal cord that control bladder function. It could be a congenital defect, and especially in older dogs, the cause may be the weakening of the muscles that retain urine in the bladder.

Urinary Incontinence in Young Dogs

In young dogs, involuntary urination can result from congenital abnormalities. The most common cause is anatomically misplaced ureters. The ureters carry urine from the kidneys to the bladder, but if one or both ureters bypass the bladder and connect to an abnormal location, such as the urethra, it can result in urinary retention problems.

Urethral sphincter mechanism incompetence is another reason that can cause urinary incontinence in young dogs. This condition usually resolves after the female dog's first heat.

There can be other reasons as well. Neurological issues and developmental disorders in the reproductive organs or bladder are possible but rarer causes of urinary incontinence.

Urinary Incontinence in Adult Dogs

There is a connection between spaying female dogs and urinary incontinence, although it is not entirely clear why spaying increases the risk of sphincter mechanism incompetence. Spaying causes hormonal and neurological changes, which may be a factor. The tissue of the urethral sphincter may become thinner, and there may be mechanical effects of spaying that make it harder to retain urine.

Incontinence in older, spayed dogs can occur months to years after spaying. The dog may urinate normally when outside but dribble more or less while resting or getting up from lying down. This condition is most common in large female dogs; medium and large female dogs are three times more likely to develop incontinence compared to smaller breeds.

A less common cause of urinary incontinence in female dogs is a condition where the vaginal opening is narrowed at the end of the urethra. In this case, urine can remain in the vagina behind the narrowed area when the dog urinates and may leak out on its own when the dog gets up from lying down.

In very old dogs, it is not entirely impossible that the dog has developed senility. In such cases, the dog cannot control its urination like it could when it was younger — it simply does not know that it is urinating.

Always Consult a Veterinarian!

If your dog is leaking urine without an obvious reason, it should always be taken to the veterinarian for a thorough examination. Only a veterinarian can rule out the possibility of urinary stones or urinary tract infections and investigate the specific cause of the incontinence.

Fortunately, there are effective treatments for urinary incontinence, so with proper treatment from a veterinarian, a dog can usually live a completely clean and happy life.

FINNERO Products for Urinary Incontinence

Treating a pet suffering from urinary incontinence with the help of a veterinarian is of utmost importance.

Sometimes the effectiveness of treatment is not immediately apparent, or despite good treatment, a few drops of urine may occasionally be on the floor. If you need to keep your home especially clean, for example, because of crawling infants on the floor, female dog heat pants or male dog belly bands can be used. These products help keep your home clean. Remember to ensure that the disposable pad or other absorbent material in the heat pants or belly band is changed to a clean one often enough.

Heat pants and belly bands are not treatments and should never replace a visit to the veterinarian, but they help maintain cleanliness inside the home.

Explore the products here >

One important detail in basic dog wellness is paw care. The parts of a dog's paw that require attention include the pads, paw hair, nails, and nail beds.

Pads

Pads are thick tissue on the bottom of a dog's paw. Typically, pads are black, but some puppies may have cute pink pads, which usually darken as the pads thicken over time. Healthy pads are flexible, soft, and resilient, without sores or cracks.

Pads function like shock absorbers. They cushion and reduce stress on the dog's joints, which helps prevent joint problems. Pads are crucial for a dog’s balance and movement on various surfaces. They prevent slipping and protect the dog from physical injuries, such as muscle strains from slipping. Pads are made up of connective and fatty tissues. Fatty tissue provides insulation, helping regulate the temperature of the paws, such as against the cold.

Nails and Nail Beds

Dog nails are made of keratin, the same substance as human nails. Regular trimming of dog nails is important because overgrown nails are uncomfortable and can even be painful. In the worst cases, they can twist the paw into an abnormal position or grow into a "hook" that presses against the pad, causing painful wounds. Keeping nails short also withstands normal wear better and reduces the risk of chipping, which can damage the nail's outer layer.

TIP! For more details on nail trimming, we have written a detailed guide HERE >

Basic Paw Care

Preventing problems is easier than treating them. Therefore, keeping the paws clean and inspecting them regularly is important. It is crucial to ensure that the dog does not walk on hot surfaces like summer asphalt, as this can cause severe burns. If a surface is too hot for your hand, it is too hot for the dog's pads. Avoid walking on chemicals, as substances like road salt or de-icers can be harmful to paw health, causing severe irritation and dryness.

Keeping paw hair short supports the overall condition of the pads. Long hair can become tangled, restricting normal movement of the toes. Long hair and tangles can also rub the skin, making it susceptible to various infections. Additionally, long hair is a great way to collect dirt, snow, and moisture, which poses health risks to the dog and increases cleaning needs at home. Paw hair can be trimmed best with rounded-tip dog grooming scissors or a suitably small grooming machine.

Dryness of Paws

A common issue is dryness of the paws. Quick relief can be achieved by applying moisturizer. There are numerous paw balms on the market, we warmly recommend FINNERO Betula birch salve, which can be a great help with many problems.
Paw balm is an essential supply for dogs and should be available at home, whether it is summer or winter.
Moisturizing helps, but the cause of the dryness should be identified. Perhaps the season is particularly demanding for the paws? For example, during winter months, frost and dry indoor air can cause paw dryness. Alternatively, the cause might be related to diet and a lack of fatty acids. In this case, it is good to check the dog’s diet and, if necessary, provide supplements like fish oil, which contains important omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids for the general condition of the pads.

If Problems Arise

Despite best efforts, paw problems can still occur. Common paw health issues include wounds, cracks, and various infections. Wounds can occur if the dog walks on sharp stones or other challenging surfaces. First aid involves cleaning the wound with a pet-safe antiseptic. It is good to use a protective boot while the area heals. If the wound bleeds heavily, veterinary attention is needed, and follow-up care should be done according to the veterinarian's instructions.

Infections

Dog paws can develop various infections due to several reasons. Infections can be triggered by poorly managed wounds, food allergies, structural defects, improper posture, certain diseases, fungal infections, and mange. A relatively common issue, especially in heavy-set dogs, is called "false pad", which can be exacerbated by overweight and/or incorrect paw posture. A false pad forms when the pad and the hairy part of the paw both touch the ground. The skin of the hairy part thickens, the hair wears away, and the skin starts to resemble a pad—hence the name false pad. Despite its appearance, the skin of a false pad still has hair follicles that secrete sebum and sweat. When these cannot be expelled, the situation can develop into an inflammatory reaction called furunculosis, which always requires veterinary evaluation.

Boots as a Great Help

One way to ensure paw well-being is to use proper dog boots. Dog boots are becoming increasingly popular among dog owners due to their many benefits.

• One of the main purposes of dog boots is to protect the pads from extreme weather conditions. During winter, paws can suffer from frostbite if the pads are not protected from snow and ice. Boots also prevent snow from packing between the pads.
• Similarly, in hot weather, dogs can burn their paws on hot asphalt and sand. Boots provide insulation and protect paws from heat.
• Dog boots also protect dogs from rough terrain. Dogs love to explore and run, but rough surfaces like gravel and rocks can cause injuries to their paws. Boots with durable soles offer protection against cuts and abrasions.
• Some dogs may be sensitive to walking on certain surfaces or in unfamiliar environments. Boots can provide a sense of security, reducing anxiety.
• Additionally, boots can improve hygiene and cleanliness. They prevent dirt from being carried into the home, reducing cleaning needs.
• Most importantly, boots can protect paws from bacteria and infections, maintaining paw health. Cleanliness is particularly important if the dog has wounds or other issues on its paws.

Various types of dog boots are available, each designed for specific purposes. You can explore FINNERON's boot selection HERE >

As the brightness of summer fades away, we enter the time of year when twilight and the darkness of night dominate much of the day. Around the world, autumn and winter bring varying lengths of darkness depending on location. In some northern regions, nightfall can last nearly all day, while further south, darkness may be shorter but still ample through fall and winter.

Whether dark or light, us dog lovers must faithfully take our furry friends for walks. Attaching a reflector or light to our own jackets is second nature for many, and the smartest walkers may even wear headlamps or reflective vests. But do we remember to equip our four-legged walking partners so they don’t vanish into the darkness?

Globally, it’s estimated that there are millions of dogs and even more cats, and unfortunately, many of these animals go outdoors in the dark without any safety gear. While reflectors may not be crucial on a rural trail, they are essential in more populated areas. Drivers, cyclists, and other traffic participants might not see a dog or cat that blends into the dark, increasing the risk of accidents.

What kind of gear?
Outfitting pets for nighttime walks is, thankfully, quite simple. There are plenty of options on the market to make evening strolls safer with minimal effort. Flashing lights and different types of reflectors are easy to use and can be attached to pet gear, such as harnesses. Many of these items can be used by both pets and owners – it’s easy to match reflectors for both!

Many pet products are designed with visibility in mind. Reflective piping on a dog’s harness or collar works well for short-haired pets, while battery-powered lighted collars can also improve visibility. However, with long-haired dogs, reflectors can get hidden by their fur, making a leash with woven or sewn-in reflective strips a better option. Many dog coats come with reflective edges, and reflective vests, in particular, are ideal for long-haired dogs, as they stay visible despite thick fur.

For maximum visibility, pets can wear reflective vests made from brightly colored fabrics, such as neon yellow or orange, with large reflective areas to ensure they stand out, even in complete darkness. The best visibility comes from combining different items—like a reflective leash, a high-visibility attention vest layered over a harness with reflective strips, and reflective booties. With all of these, your dog is sure to shine!

Using multiple reflective products makes nighttime walks brilliantly safe!

FINNERO offers a variety of products with built-in reflectivity:

REFLECTIVE VESTS >
LEASHES >
HARNESSES >
JACKETS >

When a small, adorable puppy arrives at home, the owner embarks on a rewarding but also demanding journey, requiring determination and patience. It’s time to teach the puppy basic manners, like house training and how to respond calmly to a collar, harness, and leash.

What kind of products?
For puppyhood, a puppy collar and leash are essential. It’s a good idea to have these ready even before the puppy arrives home. While a puppy collar and leash will eventually become too small, comfort and quality, just like with children's clothes, should never be compromised.

When house-training, it’s important to take the puppy outside for bathroom breaks after each meal, playtime, and nap – that means many trips outside each day since the puppy mostly just eats, plays, and sleeps. Puppies can’t hold their bladder for long, so getting outside quickly is key. A collar that slips on quickly can be a big help.

The ideal puppy collar is light, like one made from nylon, and as inconspicuous as possible. A quick-release buckle is a great choice for ease, though a standard buckle works too. Never use a choke or semi-choke collar for a puppy – a simple collar is best.

It's also good to have a harness for the puppy, especially for longer walks. Why both? A collar works well for quick bathroom breaks, but a harness is more ergonomic for the neck and back during longer walks. Puppies are full of energy and curiosity, often darting to the end of the leash to investigate, and a harness distributes any pressure from leash pulls more evenly over the body.

A lightweight leash, such as a nylon leash with a small, light clasp, works well for puppies. A retractable leash is not suitable yet. The puppy should first learn to walk properly on a regular leash, as the “freedom” of retractable leashes can teach the dog it’s okay to roam up to five or even eight meters from the owner. Retractable leashes have their place later on, once leash manners are established.

How to introduce the collar?
For puppies, collars and other accessories are still unfamiliar and might seem like toys. Owners should be gently assertive, teaching the puppy that these items should be treated respectfully. Collars and leashes are not toys to be chewed or tugged on, so they should never be used during play.

The rule of thumb in dog training is that it should never involve slapping or negativity. Training is based on positive reinforcement – praising the dog enthusiastically when they do something right and ignoring unwanted behavior. Many puppies respond well to small treats as encouragement to learn.

For the first few tries, put the collar on the puppy slightly loose rather than tight. When walking, the collar should be snug enough for two adult fingers to fit between the collar and the puppy’s neck – adjust the collar as the puppy grows.

Initially, the collar (or harness) should only be worn for short periods, gradually increasing as the puppy becomes accustomed to it. At first, the puppy might dislike wearing the collar: “What on earth is this strap on me? Yuck, I want it off!” The puppy might scratch at its neck or try to chew the collar, but patience will pay off. Only reward the puppy when it calms down and behaves as desired – then it’s time for lots of praise and a treat.

If the puppy is wary of the collar or harness, start by letting it sniff the equipment, then offer a treat, sniff again, offer a treat through the collar, sniff again, and then gently slip the collar on while offering a treat. Praise the puppy when it cooperates.

Once the puppy is okay with the collar, it’s time to teach it that the collar can restrict movement. Hold the collar and gently support the puppy’s chest, pulling the collar lightly so the puppy feels a small amount of pressure on its neck. Gradually, this sensation becomes familiar, making leash training easier.

Never pull or lift a puppy by the collar, as this can injure the neck muscles, trachea, and other sensitive structures – even with a fully grown dog, let alone a small puppy.

With daily training, the puppy will soon learn that the collar is a sign of something exciting: putting on a collar or harness means an adventure outdoors awaits – and what could be better! Before long, the puppy will be thrilled at the sight of its gear and ready to make these items part of its daily routine.

FINNERO Products for Puppies

FINNERO BAMBINO collar is crafted from woven tape, making it very soft, lightweight, flexible, and comfortable on a puppy’s neck. It’s perfect as a first collar for puppies and suitable for small adult dogs as well. SEE MORE >

FINNERO BAMBINO leash is intended for a puppy as a first leash for outdoor activities and learning on a leash. There is a small nickel-plated pistol lock at the end of the leash, with which the harness is attached to the collar or harness. SEE MORE >

FINNERO LIGHT harness is made of breathable and slightly stretchy 100% polyester MESH fabric. The harness is very easy to put on and take off, with a quick-release buckle on the back. The LIGHT harness is a safe choice for puppies learning to wear a harness, as it evenly distributes pressure around the body.
SEE MORE >

New dog owners often wonder which is better for walking their furry friend: a collar or a harness. There’s no clear-cut answer, and in some cases, it’s best to use both.

Puppy Collar
It’s good to get a lightweight basic collar for a puppy, which can help them get used to wearing one indoors. Start by having the puppy wear the collar for short periods, gradually increasing the time as they become more comfortable with it. Initially, they may try to shake it off or scratch it with a hind leg, but in time, they’ll barely notice it.

When putting the collar on for the first time, you can encourage the puppy to come near it by offering treats through the collar. Once the puppy is comfortable, slip the collar over their head. Practice this daily until they’re used to the collar and allow you to put it on and remove it calmly. Dogs are smart; they soon learn to associate the collar with going outside, and they’ll eagerly await walks when they see the collar come out.

Adult Dog Collar
When choosing a collar for an adult dog, consider how it will be used. Will the dog be able to roam freely, or will it stay on a leash? Also, consider the dog’s behavior, neck and head structure, and coat thickness. A lightweight, fabric or nylon collar is ideal for dogs that are off-leash, as it allows for easy grabbing if needed. If the dog is leashed, it’s better to use a wide, padded collar. A width that spans two of the dog’s neck vertebrae is recommended.

A collar isn’t ideal for very lively or strong-pulling adult dogs, as tugging can strain their neck vertebrae, larynx, and surrounding areas, leading to health issues. In these cases, a harness is the right choice, as it distributes pressure more evenly on areas that can withstand it better than the neck.

Dogs with very thick fur, such as Collies, may have trouble keeping a collar on, as their narrow, tapered heads and thick neck fur can cause the collar to slip off with even a slight pull. In such cases, a harness is the best choice for walking.

Some breeds, like Greyhounds with narrow necks, often require specialized collars, such as the extra-wide Greyhound collar.

Benefits of a Harness
While a collar is quick and convenient for walks, it’s not always the best option as the only walking tool. Some dogs and situations make collars less ideal. If a dog suddenly pulls on the leash, it can cause a quick stop that puts strain on their neck, shoulders, and back. Externally, this can cause damage to their coat and skin, and internally, the muscles, vertebrae, trachea, and other neck structures can suffer from the strong tug. If a dog tends to pull on the leash or is very excitable, a well-fitting harness is a much safer, more ergonomic, and comfortable option than a collar. Training a dog not to pull deserves its own blog post!

Types of Harnesses
There are many types of harnesses designed for different purposes, including basic, pulling, running, and anti-pull harnesses. Basic harnesses are used for regular walks. Some popular options include:

• T-Harnesses: These have a chest strap running horizontally across the dog’s chest. T-harnesses are traditional and popular and work well if properly fitted. In an improperly sized harness, the chest strap may shift upwards, pressing against the dog’s trachea.
• Y-Harnesses: These have a Y-shaped strap running over the chest and between the front legs, allowing for freedom of movement in the shoulders and legs, making them suitable for active walks. The pressure is evenly distributed across the chest.
• Mesh Harnesses: In these, the dog is “dressed” in the harness, which is made mostly or entirely of durable fabric.
• Mesh Light Harnesses: These work similarly to mesh harnesses but have less fabric coverage.

The last two types are particularly designed for small dogs.

Other Walking Accessories
There are also pulling harnesses, running harnesses, anti-pull harnesses, head collars, and metal chain collars. Each of these has its specific purpose and is not a substitute for a basic collar or harness.

It is worth noting that products that cause pain, such as prong collars or shock collars, are prohibited according to the animal protection law of Finland and many other countries.

Check out FINNERO’s collars and harnesses!

Walking on a leash doesn’t go perfectly right away with a young puppy. The scents of the world and all sorts of other incredibly interesting things capture the curious little one’s attention—and the leash inconveniently limits the puppy's frantic jumping from one side of the road to the other.

Training a small puppy to walk on a leash requires patience and consistency from the owner, as the puppy cannot immediately understand why it is not allowed to dart off in different directions when outside. The feeling of pressure from the leash might confuse the little dog, making it pull even harder—or sit down puzzled, pondering the situation. However, leash walking is something a dog must learn. It is important to be able to walk with the dog in busy areas without the dog constantly dashing off after everything that catches its attention, which at worst can cause dangerous situations or at least annoyed glances from passersby.

Walking on a Leash

A puppy’s energy to pull on the leash can be endless. There goes a squirrel, there goes another dog! It would be an absolute must to investigate everything right now. However, the dog must learn that it should not pull on the leash, but instead slow down when it feels the leash tighten. How can this be achieved?

The basis of good leash behavior is teaching the dog that it is rewarding to stay close to the owner. Training should ideally start indoors—and without a leash. The puppy is allowed to roam freely in the house, but whenever it comes to the owner and makes eye contact, i.e., establishes contact, it is praised—with words and small treats to reinforce the behavior. Training can be intensified by taking a few steps away from the dog, and when the dog follows, it is praised again. You can repeat this exercise several times: sometimes taking more steps away, sometimes fewer, and praising the dog every time it follows in the same direction as the owner. The training should not be too intense, and it’s important to take breaks.

While walking outside with a puppy, situations will undoubtedly arise where the puppy walks so far from the handler that the leash tightens. Scolding the dog doesn’t help, and you should never pull the dog by the leash. The dog does not learn anything from the owner pulling on the leash, but in the worst case, pulling can cause serious damage to the dog's neck and spine.

Instead, stop and wait. When the dog turns to look at the handler in the eyes, i.e., when it makes contact, the dog should be rewarded with praise and treats. Then, continue walking until the same situation arises again. And again.

You can also introduce a command for this situation, for example, saying "wait" every time you stop and wait for the dog to stop and make contact. Over time, the dog will learn to stop and look at the handler whenever it feels the leash tightening or hears the command "wait."

The keywords in dog training are consistency and patience. Every walk is a good opportunity to teach the dog a bit more of what has been practiced. With consistent training, and always respecting the animal's natural behavior, you can create a well-behaved dog companion with whom walks are fun and safe for everyone.

What Kind of Leash for a Puppy?

For a puppy leash, a light option, such as a nylon leash with a lightweight clip, works well. The length of a puppy leash should be such that the dog can move a bit further away from its owner to do its business in peace, but still be easily controlled and brought closer when needed. Typically, puppy leashes range from 120 to 180 cm (47"-70") in length.

A retractable leash is not suitable for a small puppy. It is better for the puppy to first learn how to walk properly with a basic leash, as the "freedom" provided by retractable leash only teaches the dog that it’s okay to run in different directions, even five or eight meters away from the owner. The time for using retractable leashes will come later, once the basic principles of leash walking have been learned.

FINNERO Products for Puppies

The BAMBINO leash is made from woven tape, which is very soft and lightweight. It is a great choice for walking with a small puppy. CHECK IT OUT >

The BAMBINO collar is made from woven tape, which is very soft, lightweight, flexible, and comfortable on a puppy's neck. It can be used as a first collar for puppies and for small adult dogs. CHECK IT OUT >

The LIGHT harness is made from breathable and slightly stretchy 100% polyester MESH fabric. The harness is very easy to put on and take off, with a buckle closure on the back. The LIGHT harness is a safe option for puppies learning to wear a harness, as the pressure is evenly distributed around the dog's body. CHECK IT OUT >

In everyday language, it's called a hot spot; officially, it's known as a moist superficial skin infection, and even more formally as pyotraumatic dermatitis. But what exactly is it, and what causes it?

What is a Hot Spot?
A hot spot is a relatively common issue in dogs, but fortunately, it’s usually entirely treatable. It’s a skin infection that typically starts from a minor skin injury on the dog. It may begin with something like an insect bite or sting, but itching from pain, neglected coat care, or allergies can also lead the dog to lick or scratch itself. In other words, anything that makes a dog lick or scratch enough to break the skin can cause bacteria to multiply in that area, leading to infection.

Hot spots are most common in summer because bacteria thrive in warm, moist conditions. This is why hot spots often develop in dogs with thick fur, especially if they love swimming. A thick coat takes time to dry after a swim, creating a perfect environment for bacterial growth. Hot spots typically appear around the ears, neck, and hips, but they can develop anywhere — for example, on the back end if full anal glands cause irritation, leading the dog to scoot or lick the area. If left untreated, a hot spot itches and bothers the dog, causing it to scratch and lick, which can spread the infection. In advanced stages, the infected area can become painful, so it’s essential to address it as soon as it's noticed.

How is a Hot Spot Identified?
A hot spot often appears as a round, red, inflamed, or even oozing area on the skin. It can be challenging to detect a hot spot beneath the coat of a long or thick-furred dog, allowing the infection to worsen. A severely infected area will smell bad and itch intensely, and the dog’s behavior will indicate that something is wrong.

To confirm the issue, it’s best to take the dog to a veterinarian. Using a microscope, the vet can distinguish between bacteria and fungi, providing a clear diagnosis, medication, and treatment instructions for the dog.

How Can a Hot Spot Be Treated?
It’s essential to keep the infected area clean, dry, and exposed to air. Trimming the fur around the inflamed area helps keep the skin clean and airy. Preventing the dog from worsening the situation by scratching or licking the area is also important. A collar or a loosely fitting cotton garment can help keep the dog from accessing the inflamed area.

Following the veterinarian’s instructions on medication and/or medicated shampoos is crucial. Supportive care can include using products like FINNERO Betula. Patience and careful attention are necessary for hot spot treatment to ensure the skin heals fully.

Can Hot Spots Be Prevented?
Hot spots are most common in summer, especially in dogs with thick or long coats. To prevent hot spots, dry the dog’s skin and coat thoroughly after every swim. In summer, trimming or brushing the dog’s coat to keep it tangle-free and well-aired can also help.

Stay up-to-date with parasite treatments; protecting your dog from ticks, mosquitoes, and other skin-irritating insects is essential. Ear infections, anal gland issues, hip pain, and allergies can all lead a dog to lick or scratch, so treating these issues is also important.

If you suspect your dog has a hot spot, contact a veterinarian to address the problem, allowing your dog to enjoy life, swimming, and even the hot summer season without irritating, itchy skin.

Tip!
We offer FINNERO BETULA Birch Balm, an excellent supportive product for hot spot care.

A dog’s temperature regulation is a complex cooperation between tissues and organs, with the body temperature being monitored and maintained by the thermoregulatory center in the brain’s hypothalamus. Many factors affect how successfully a dog can maintain an appropriate temperature—coat type, age, diet, health, and other elements should be considered, as every furry friend is unique, and even dogs of the same breed can have very different abilities to adapt to various temperatures.

Winter – What to Consider?

Winter brings cold temperatures, frost, and snow, which can be challenging for dogs. Some dogs are unfazed by the cold, while others need our help to stay healthy in freezing weather. Why is this?

Coat Quality Matters

Different dog breeds have varying coat qualities. Some dog breeds have a double coat, meaning they have a protective outer coat and, in addition, an insulating undercoat that changes yearly. These breeds are generally better equipped to handle the cold and don’t need a jacket in winter, as the undercoat acts like a down jacket, protecting them from the cold. While all dogs’ coats require care, it’s especially important for double-coated breeds. A dirty, matted, or un-shed undercoat won’t do its job properly, and the dog may feel cold despite having a double coat. Additionally, illness, poor diet, or age-related issues that disrupt the shedding of the undercoat can cause problems with temperature regulation.

Proper nutrition, brushing, bathing, and other basic care are essential to keeping the undercoat in good condition so it can do its job, even in cold weather.

Breeds with double coats include Border Collie, Labrador Retriever, Samoyed, Husky, Alaskan Malamute, Corgi, German Shepherd, Rottweiler, Finnish Spitz, Finnish Lapphund, and Long-haired Collie.

Dogs with a single coat have only the outer coat and little to no undercoat. The fur types of single-coated dogs vary greatly: their coat can be thin or dense, and its length or texture can vary. No matter how long or thick the outer coat is, it doesn’t insulate like an undercoat. For this reason, it’s recommended to put a weather-appropriate coat on these dogs to keep them warm.

Breeds with a single coat (or very little undercoat) include Poodles, Chihuahuas, Greyhounds, Bulldogs, Lagottos, Bichon Frisés, Labradoodles, Coton de Tulears, Yorkshire Terriers, and Papillons.

If your dog is not one of the mentioned breeds or is a mixed breed, you can determine its coat type by gently pulling back the fur. Double-coated dogs will have an outer coat and shorter hairs closer to the skin. The shorter hairs are the undercoat, which feels wool-like and soft compared to the outer coat.

Protecting Paws from Ice, Snow, and Salt

In winter, a dog’s paws are subjected to cold, ice, and road salt. Salt can irritate the paws and even cause sores, while icy surfaces can damage the pads. Additionally, snow has an annoying habit of clumping between the paws and pads. How can you help your dog?

Regularly cleaning your dog’s paws after walks and applying paw balm helps protect them.

Trimming the fur between the pads regularly with blunt-tipped scissors is also a good idea. Short fur won’t provide as much warmth as long fur, but it significantly reduces the chance of snow clumping.

The best solution is to use boots designed for winter conditions. Proper winter boots protect the pads from snow, stay securely on, and keep the paws warm, making walks as enjoyable for the dog as they are for us in our winter shoes.

Exercise and Muscle Health in Winter

Cold weather may reduce a dog’s desire to move, but regular exercise is still important. Before going outside, ensure your dog warms up properly to prevent its muscles from stiffening in the cold. Long periods of standing still in the cold can lead to chills or muscle stiffness, so continuous movement is key.

Feeding and Energy Needs

Dogs that spend a lot of time outdoors in winter may require more energy to maintain their body temperature. This is especially true for working and hunting dogs or other active dogs. On the other hand, indoor dogs that spend most of their time in a warm environment typically don’t need extra food. Overfeeding in winter can lead to weight gain, which can strain a dog’s joints and overall health.

Summer – The Challenges of Heat and Sun

Dogs regulate their body temperature primarily by panting. They have very few sweat glands, and they are located in the paw pads.

As a result, summer heat can be challenging for dogs. Overheating can be dangerous and, in extreme cases, lead to heatstroke. However, with the right precautions, you can protect your dog from the heat.

Preventing Overheating

Dogs regulate their body temperature through panting. However, recent studies suggest that it’s not just through the mouth, but significant airflow also passes through the nasal cavity. The blood circulation in the nasal mucosa is directly connected to the blood vessels in the brain, thus regulating brain temperature. The longer the nose, the larger the surface area of the nasal mucosa and its cooling effect. Thus, during summer heat, it’s especially challenging for short-nosed dogs to cool themselves naturally.

Regardless of nose length, never force a dog to stay in the sun, in a hot car, or any other too-hot place against its will. It’s also important to avoid excessive physical exertion during the hottest parts of the day. Shaded areas and cool spaces, such as air-conditioned rooms or those with ventilation, help keep the dog cool. If your dog is outdoors, ensure it always has access to shade.

Water Supply

Adequate hydration is essential for a dog’s well-being in hot weather. Fresh water should always be available, and for longer walks, it’s a good idea to carry water and a travel bowl. Placing water bowls in multiple locations both indoors and outdoors can help ensure the dog drinks enough.

Sunburn

Thin-coated or hairless dogs are susceptible to sunburn. Areas like the nose, ears, and belly are particularly vulnerable to burning in the sun. Special sunscreens made for dogs can be used to protect these sensitive areas.

Summer Paw Care

Hot asphalt and sand can burn a dog’s paws. A good rule of thumb is to test the surface with your hand: if it feels hot to your hand, it’s likely too hot for your dog’s paws.

You can buy summer boots to protect your dog’s paws from hot surfaces. When choosing summer boots, keep in mind that dogs sweat through their pads, so the boot’s sole should protect against excessive heat, but the boot itself should be breathable to allow the pads to participate in temperature regulation.

Regularly applying paw balm is also highly recommended to keep the pads soft and supple.

Cooling Techniques

You can make your dog more comfortable by cooling its environment. Cooling products for dogs, such as scarves and mats, can help keep the dog cool.

Many dogs love swimming, and it’s an excellent way to cool down in the summer heat. However, for dense-coated dogs, it’s important to ensure the dog dries completely between swims. Prolonged moisture on the skin can lead to the development of hot spots, a skin infection we’ve covered in more detail [here].

Summary

Regulating a dog’s temperature requires attention during both winter’s cold and summer’s heat. In winter, it’s important to protect dogs from the cold and ensure paw health. In summer, preventing overheating, ensuring adequate water intake, and protecting paws are critical. Every dog is unique, and their needs vary, but general precautions can help ensure your dog stays healthy and happy all year round.

Caring for your dog's nail health is part of a dog owner's daily routine. But what does it actually involve?

Monitoring

It's a good idea to regularly check the length of your dog's nails. This often happens almost automatically while petting your dog: a relaxed pup enjoying a belly rub won’t even notice when you discreetly check the condition of its paws. It’s important to teach your dog from a young age to allow you to touch its paws and nails—this will make paw care much easier when the dog is an adult.

When are the nails too long?

There are breed-specific and individual differences in the shapes of nails and paw pads, but as a general rule, the nails are too long if they touch the ground when the dog is standing in a normal position.

What are the drawbacks of long nails?

Too long nails cause pain for the dog. They can twist the paw into an unnatural position or even grow into a "hook" that presses into the paw pad, causing painful sores. A well-maintained short nail is also more resistant to normal wear and tear, reducing the risk of splitting and damaging the nail’s outer layer. If your dog wears booties, excessively long nails can press uncomfortably against the bootie and even damage it.

How to trim the nails?

Dog nails are trimmed with clippers designed specifically for dogs, available in various models and sizes. For puppies, only the sharp tip of the nail should be trimmed to avoid accidents and prevent the puppy from getting scared. This way, the little puppy learns that nail care is nothing to fear. Reward the puppy with praise and treats after trimming the nails, and follow up with a fun play session. This makes the process enjoyable for the puppy and makes future nail care easier.

Depending on the size of the dog, the proper way to hold the dog varies. A small dog can be held in your lap, while a larger dog can stay on the floor. Having someone gently but firmly hold the dog can also make the trimming easier.

The outer part of a dog’s nail is made of keratin, and inside is the quick, which contains blood vessels and nerves. If you cut the nail too short, the quick will break, causing the dog momentary pain and bleeding. There are home remedies for stopping the bleeding, such as cooling the nail with snow, ice, or cold water. You can also place some potato starch or baking soda in a small bag and dip the dog's paw into it for five minutes. There are also proper products available for this issue, which you can find at petstores, veterinary clinics, and pharmacies. These can be a useful addition to your dog’s home first-aid kit! Typically, the bleeding stops quickly, but if it continues after 15 minutes, you should contact a vet.

If you accidentally cut too much, remember to stay calm. Dogs are highly sensitive to their owner’s behavior and may become even more frightened if the owner panics.

Practice makes perfect! Nail trimming isn’t rocket science, and you’ll get the hang of it if you trim a little at a time and do it often. However, if the process feels too difficult, you can visit a vet or a pet store that offers nail trimming services to ensure your dog's nails are regularly taken care of.

When the nails are the right length, your dog can walk comfortably on various surfaces, and there’s no reason to avoid using booties either.
Check out FINNERO’s selection of booties here >

Birch Balm is made from tar extracted from birch bark and other natural ingredients. It is known for its versatile health benefits, even in the world of pets. Birch Balm is a traditional remedy that offers a natural and effective way to treat many animal skin and health issues. In this blog, we will explore the benefits and uses of Birch Balm for animals, although it is also excellent for human use!

What can Birch Balm be used for?

1. Wounds and scratches: Birch Balm is an excellent choice for treating wounds and scratches in all kinds of animals. Its antiseptic properties prevent infections and promote wound healing.
2. Skin inflammations and irritations: The anti-inflammatory and soothing properties of Birch Balm can help alleviate skin inflammations and irritations, such as hot spots and allergic reactions.
3. Insect bites and stings: Birch Balm helps relieve the itching and swelling caused by insect bites and stings in animals, such as dogs and horses.
4. Paws and hooves: Birch Balm is also well-suited for treating the paws and hooves. It helps soften dry and cracked paws and hooves and protects them from external irritants.
5. Muscle and joint pain: Birch Balm can be used to alleviate muscle and joint pain in animals. It helps relax sore muscles and reduce inflammation in the joints.
6. Snowballing: Birch Balm helps prevent snowballing in dogs' paws in winter.

How to use Birch Balm?

1. Treating wounds and scratches: Clean the wound or scratch thoroughly before applying Birch Balm. Apply a small amount of balm directly to the affected area. Repeat the treatment as needed several times a day until the wound heals.
2. Treating skin inflammations and irritations: Apply a thin layer of Birch Balm to the inflamed or irritated skin area. Use it regularly 1-3 times a day until symptoms subside.
3. Insect bites and stings: Apply Birch Balm directly to the bite or sting. It helps relieve itching and reduce swelling. Repeat as necessary.
4. Paw and hoof care: Massage Birch Balm into dry and cracked paws or hooves. Use it regularly, especially in winter and dry seasons when paws and hooves are more susceptible to damage. Use daily or as needed.
5. Relieving muscle and joint pain: Massage Birch Balm into sore muscles and joints to alleviate pain and inflammation. Repeat the treatment as needed a few times a day.

The benefits of being resin-free

FINNERO BETULA Birch Balm does not contain resin. This is great, as some animals can be allergic to the resin. Resin allergy can cause various symptoms in animals, such as itching, redness, swelling, and skin irritation. In severe cases, it can lead to blisters and secondary infections due to constant scratching and licking. The use of resin-free products such as FINNERO BETULA Birch Balm is highly recommended to avoid allergic reactions.

Tips!

• Birch Balm is safe when used externally and in recommended amounts. However, significant overuse can cause skin irritation or sensitivity in some animals. If you notice any adverse reactions, reduce the frequency of use or discontinue use.
• If ingested in large quantities, Birch Balm can cause mild gastrointestinal symptoms, such as vomiting, diarrhea, and drooling. It is important to prevent animals from licking off too much balm, especially from easily accessible areas like paws.
• Apply the balm to areas where the animal cannot easily reach with their tongue, such as the back or upper limbs. When using the Birch Balm on paws or other areas the animal can lick, you can cover the area, use a dog cone, or monitor the pet until the balm is absorbed.
• Birch Balm has a bad taste, which is actually a good thing! The unpleasant taste reduces the animal's desire to lick the balm off treated areas. The taste of birch balm comes from its natural ingredients, such as birch tar, which can have a strong and unpleasant flavor.

FINNERO BETULA Birch Balm is a versatile and natural remedy that provides effective relief for various skin and health issues in animals. Its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing properties make it a valuable addition to animal care products. Try Birch Balm on your animals and see for yourself how this traditional natural product can help improve their health and well-being.

See for more, FINNERO BETULA >

Training your dog is an essential part of a dog owner’s routine. A well-trained dog is balanced and easier to manage. Training not only helps the dog adapt to everyday situations but also strengthens the bond between the owner and their furry friend.

What Is Positive Reinforcement?

Positive reinforcement means rewarding your dog immediately after it performs a desired behavior. The reward can vary—treats, playtime, praise, or anything the dog finds enjoyable. This reward strengthens the behavior, teaching the dog to associate the desired action with a positive outcome. For example, if your dog sits on command and gets a treat, it will be motivated to sit again in the future.

How Does Positive Reinforcement Work?

Positive reinforcement relies on classical and operant conditioning, psychological processes that explain how animals learn behaviors. Classical conditioning involves associating a reward with a specific action, like sitting. Operant conditioning, on the other hand, focuses on how behavior that leads to a reward becomes reinforced and repeated.

In training, it’s crucial to provide the reward immediately after the desired behavior, so the dog associates the reward with the specific action. For instance, if you are teaching your dog to give a paw, you must reward it as soon as it lifts its paw.

Benefits of Positive Reinforcement

• Motivates the Dog: Rewarding desired behavior encourages your dog to learn new things and repeat good behaviors.
• Improves Behavior: Consistent rewards strengthen desired behaviors, making them more likely to occur in the future. This can enhance the dog’s overall behavior and interactions with people.
• Easy Progress Tracking: Giving rewards immediately after a specific behavior helps make the learning process clearer and easier to follow.

Applying Positive Reinforcement

Positive reinforcement isn’t limited to basic commands like “sit” or “down.” It’s also useful for teaching more complex skills and behaviors, such as house training, walking on a leash, fetching toys, or developing social skills. Training can take place both in everyday life and during dedicated sessions. Consistency and patience are key.

Tips for Successful Positive Reinforcement

1. Reward Quickly: Give rewards immediately after the correct action to help your dog link the behavior with the reward.
2. Keep Rewards Varied: Mix up the rewards—use treats, playtime, or praise to keep your dog motivated.
3. Avoid Over-Rewarding: Too frequent rewards may cause your dog to lose interest. Ensure rewards remain meaningful.
4. Be Patient: Training takes time, but a consistent and patient approach will yield results.

Examples of Training Scenarios

House Training

• Puppies have limited bladder control and should not be punished for accidents indoors. Scolding can confuse the puppy, causing fear instead of learning.
• Prevention is Key: Take your puppy outside immediately after waking up, playing, or eating—essentially multiple times a day.
• Positive Reinforcement: Reward the puppy every time it relieves itself outside. Frequent trips and rewards will speed up the house-training process.

Teaching “Sit”

• Select a few treats your dog loves and go to a quiet place where it can focus. Hold a treat in your hand and say “sit.”
• Slowly move the treat above the dog’s head. Most dogs will naturally sit while looking up. If needed, gently press the dog’s back down.
• Positive Reinforcement: As soon as the dog sits, say “sit” or “good sit” and give the treat.

Teaching “Down”

• After your dog learns “sit,” you can teach “down.” Ask your dog to sit first and reward it for doing so. Then say “down.”
• Hold a treat in your hand and move it between the dog’s front paws, slowly pulling your hand away along the ground. The dog will follow the treat and lie down.
• Positive Reinforcement: As soon as the dog lies down, praise it and give the treat.

Tip: Avoid confusing your dog by using the same word (like “down”) for different actions, such as getting off furniture. Use “off” or another command instead.

Teaching Recall

• Recall training can be challenging, as different breeds and individual dogs may have varying levels of motivation. A dog may not want to stop sniffing deer tracks to return to its owner.
• The reward must be highly desirable—something so irresistible that the dog will leave whatever it’s doing to return. Start practicing in a quiet environment with minimal distractions, like indoors.
• Positive Reinforcement: Praise and reward your puppy every time it comes to you, even without a command. Incorporate a word like “here” or “come,” or use a whistle. Ample practice, praise, and rewards are needed for success.

Once the dog reliably comes indoors, move the training outdoors, initially using a long leash or staying in fenced areas for safety.

Training Is Fun!

Dog training is not just necessary but also a fun activity. It strengthens the bond between owner and dog, adds variety to your dog’s routine, and may even lead to hobbies like agility, obedience training, hunting, and more.

If you need support or tips, reaching out to professional dog trainers is a great idea. Experts can help with various challenges and make learning enjoyable for both you and your dog.

Enjoy your time with your furry friend!

Playing with dogs is fun but also important for their physical and mental well-being. Two very popular toys that provide hours of entertainment and exercise are the floating water toy and the fabric tug toy.

Floating Water Toy

The floating water toy is perfect for dogs who love swimming. Whenever you're by the water, the floating toy will keep your water-loving dog's mind active, and your dog will get effective exercise.
Popular toys are made from durable, floating materials such as Thermo-Plastic-Rubber (TPR). It is good to choose a toy that is shaped so that it fits comfortably in the dog's mouth. That way, fetching goes smoothly!

Advantages of the floating toy:

• Exercise: Swimming is an excellent full-body workout. It helps develop muscles and endurance.
• Cooling down: On hot days, playing in the water helps to keep your dog cool.
• Mental alertness: Fetching in the water offers your dog a fun challenge and keeps their mind sharp.

Tug Toy

Tug toys made from durable ropes or fabrics are excellent for interactive play. Many prefer cotton, which is a natural fiber.

Advantages of the tug toy:

• Strengthening the bond: Tugging strengthens the bond between the dog and the owner through close interaction and positive experiences.
• Training: Tug toys can be used to teach commands like "drop," "take," "fetch," etc., improving obedience skills.
• Dental hygiene: Chewing and tugging on the tug toy can help clean your dog's teeth and massage their gums.

Tips for safe play:

• Always supervise your dog during playtime
• Choose toys that are appropriate for your dog's size and strength
• Regularly check the condition of the toys and replace them if they are damaged
• Use toys made for pets

FINNERO options:

• FINNERO WAVE, floating dog toy
• FINNERO TAAVI, dog tug toy

And now... unleash the fun!

Fireworks are spectacular to watch for many people. Impressive, flourishing, colorful, and smoky fireworks are a particularly big part of the New Year's celebration. Fireworks may also be present at private events, like weddings. So, there’s no shortage of noise and flashes. However, for many pets, and even wildlife, fireworks can be an incredibly frightening experience. How can we help?

How Do I Know if My Pet Is Afraid?

Each animal reacts to fear in its own way. For dogs, fear can be indicated if the dog seeks out its owner – or alternatively hides in the farthest corner of the house. Loss of appetite, trembling, drooling, panting, vocalization, and restlessness can all be clear signs of fear. Essentially, any unusual behavior in an animal could be a sign of fear.

How Can I Help My Pet in a Scary Situation?

For example, it’s possible—and necessary—to prepare in advance for New Year’s fireworks. Here are a few tips from our blog on how to help your frightened pet.

Calming the Home Environment

It’s not recommended to leave a noise-sensitive pet home alone, so you can monitor its behavior. It’s also easier to distract the pet from the noises outside when the owner is present. Distractions can include chewing on a bone, using interactive toys, playing, or other enjoyable activities. Close doors and windows securely, and close the curtains to block out the flashes of fireworks. The sound of a TV or radio can help cover up the noise. If the pet wants to hide in a dark bedroom, allow it to do so.

Pets pick up a lot from their owners’ behavior, so staying calm and behaving normally helps to calm the pet too.

Moving to Another Location

If you know in advance that there will be a lot of fireworks near your home, it may be a good idea to consider heading to the peaceful countryside. If cottage life isn’t an option, check out hotel and other accommodation options. Many places offer pet-friendly, fireworks-free lodging, especially for New Year’s.

Timing Walks

In many countries, there are designated legal hours for New Year’s fireworks, and the worst noise tends to fall within these times. It’s best to avoid walking a sensitive pet during these hours and instead plan walks before or after. Unfortunately, people often ignore the general guidelines, so you might hear sporadic fireworks outside the permitted hours as well. For this reason, it’s best not to let your dog off-leash even in a fenced yard throughout New Year’s, and when out walking, ensure that the dog cannot slip out of its harness or collar and escape.

Checking Equipment

For a dog’s outdoor gear, it’s wise to use a double leash attached to both the collar and harness. This gives you an extra layer of safety in case one fails, allowing you time to react if the dog tries to bolt.

In addition to a harness, it’s a good idea to use a waist lock for harness. This goes around the dog’s waist and connects to the harness—a great safety measure for everyday use!

FINNERO RESCUE Waist Lock For Dog Harness

Using Pheromone and Natural Products

There are many natural calming products for pets available at pharmacies and pet stores. These products typically work by using calming pheromones, valerian (valeriana officinalis), or tryptophan, an amino acid that maintains serotonin production in the pet’s body. Note that it’s best to start using these products even a couple of weeks before the main event.

Compression Shirt and Half Wrap

A compression shirt is a garment sold in pet stores that fits snugly on the pet. The gentle pressure it provides can help calm the dog. It’s advisable to get the pet accustomed to the compression shirt in a stress-free environment so it doesn’t associate it with the source of fear.

As a home remedy, you can make a similar wrap using a “half wrap.” This involves gently wrapping a scarf around the pet’s body, but never too tightly to restrict movement—it should feel like a gentle hug. Like the pressure shirt, it’s good to get the pet used to the wrap in advance.

Steps for tying a half wrap:

1. Place the scarf across the pet’s chest and cross the ends over its back.
2. Bring the scarf ends down along the sides.
3. Cross the ends under the belly and bring them back up.
4. Tie the scarf on the back.

If Your Pet Escapes

If the worst happens and your pet gets away, the contact information for agencies that help in the search for lost pets is very important. Find out in advance if there are search dogs and experts near you that you can turn to in times of need.

Recover the scent!

Experts working with search dogs recommend keeping a scent sample from the pet. It's easy: put a small amount of fur in a clean, resealable bag or glass jar, then seal it tightly. For hairless pets, you can wipe the skin with a cotton pad.

You can also take a scent sample from the collar, but if the dog has run away with the collar, this won't help.

It is recommended to replace the scent sample with a new one every six months.

Managing Fear

Every pet is unique. One pet may be fearless, while another might react to the slightest sound. Helping a pet overcome the fear of new situations, sounds, and smells involves training—exposure to new things from an early age builds confidence.

Desensitizing a pet to fear is a patience-requiring process in which the pet is gradually encouraged to focus on relaxing, playing, or other positive experiences instead of fear. Learning may take time, but the owner’s commitment is well worth it.