Dental problems are common in rabbits and often develop gradually without clear early symptoms. As rabbits are prey animals by nature, they instinctively try to hide pain for as long as possible. For this reason, dental issues are often only noticed once they have already progressed significantly.

A well-balanced diet, regular monitoring, and timely supportive care are key factors in preventing and managing dental problems in rabbits.

Continuously growing teeth

A rabbit’s dental system is highly specialised. Rabbits have a total of 28 teeth, and both their incisors and cheek teeth grow continuously throughout life – at a rate of approximately 2–4 millimetres per week.

Rabbits have two upper and two lower incisors, which they use to cut and bite food. Behind the upper incisors are two small secondary incisors, commonly referred to as peg teeth, which help maintain proper alignment of the bite. In addition, rabbits have 14 cheek teeth, which are usually not visible without specialised equipment and sedation. These cheek teeth are used to grind food with a lateral chewing motion before swallowing.

In a healthy rabbit, teeth wear down naturally when the diet contains sufficient fibre and requires prolonged chewing.

Bite alignment can change over time

In a normal bite, the upper incisors sit slightly in front of the lower incisors, and the lower incisors align with the peg teeth. Even if a rabbit’s bite appears normal at the time of purchase, it may change later in life.

Changes in bite alignment can be caused by trauma, tooth damage, chewing on cage bars, or infections of the tooth roots. Bite abnormalities present from a young age are often hereditary. Because rabbit teeth grow rapidly, even a minor misalignment can lead to visible problems in a short period of time.

The most common bite abnormalities are a level bite, where the upper and lower incisors meet directly, and an underbite, where the lower incisors grow in front of the upper incisors. Both conditions can interfere with eating and increase the risk of recurring dental problems.

Cheek teeth – an often hidden problem

Rabbit cheek teeth also grow continuously. Insufficient intake of coarse hay is a common cause of excessive cheek tooth growth and the formation of sharp dental spurs. These spurs can cause painful wounds on the tongue and the lining of the cheeks.

Problems with cheek teeth often present indirectly. A rabbit may eat less, drool, move its jaw abnormally while chewing, or lose weight. Eye or nasal discharge may be linked to irritation caused by the roots of overgrown cheek teeth. Examination and treatment of cheek teeth almost always require sedation, and dental spurs must always be removed by grinding performed by a veterinarian – never by cutting.

Dental spurs tend to recur unless the underlying cause, such as dietary deficiencies, is identified and corrected.

Dental problems affect the whole body

Dental issues are not limited to the mouth. Pain and difficulty eating can easily lead to reduced food intake, weight loss, and disturbances in gastrointestinal function. If left untreated, dental problems can significantly weaken a rabbit’s overall condition and may require long-term management.

For this reason, monitoring dental health is an essential part of basic rabbit care, alongside proper nutrition and a suitable living environment.

Proper diet is the cornerstone of dental care

Natural tooth wear in rabbits relies on prolonged chewing. High-quality, fibre-rich hay forms the foundation of a rabbit’s diet and is the single most important factor in maintaining good dental health. In addition to hay, rabbits should have access to other safe chewing materials, such as branches or purpose-made wooden chew items.

Energy-dense foods, sugary or starchy treats, and low-fibre diets increase the risk of dental problems and may worsen existing conditions.

Supporting rabbit dental health
– CUNIPIC Vet Line Rabbit Dental

Rabbit dental health and the prevention of dental problems can be supported with a diet specifically designed for this purpose. CUNIPIC Vet Line Rabbit Dentalis a complete feed developed to support proper tooth wear and oral health as part of comprehensive care.

The food is based on high-quality meadow hay and natural medicinal plants with an abrasive texture that promotes tooth wear during chewing. Its formulation also supports the health of the oral and throat mucosa and may aid in the recovery of minor lesions.

CUNIPIC Vet Line Rabbit Dental is not a medication, but a supportive feed suitable for long-term use. It does not replace veterinary treatment, but works alongside it and may help reduce the recurrence of dental problems, especially in rabbits prone to dental challenges. The food is produced in the EU using European raw materials.

If you suspect dental problems, changes in eating behaviour, or a decline in your rabbit’s general condition, always consult a veterinarian first.

Learn more about Cunipic Vet Line Rabbit Dental here >

Rabbit obesity is unfortunately a common problem and at the same time one of the most underestimated. A round body shape is often perceived as “cute,” even though excess fat places a significant strain on the rabbit’s body and increases the risk of serious health issues. A rabbit’s ideal condition is not determined solely by the number on the scale, but by Body Condition Scoring (BCS), which assesses the palpability of the ribs, spine, and pelvic bones.

How to Recognise Rabbit Obesity

A rabbit’s weight is difficult to assess visually, as a thick coat can hide body contours. The most reliable method is to gently palpate the ribs (behind the elbows), the spine, and the pelvic area.

In an ideal condition, the ribs and bones can be felt with light pressure but are not sharp or protruding. If the bones cannot be felt at all and the abdomen appears sagging, the rabbit is likely overweight. Overweight rabbits often also develop fat deposits around the neck and a rounded hindquarters.

Rabbit Body Condition Scoring – illustrative reference image

Why Is Rabbit Obesity a Health Risk?

Rabbit obesity is not merely a cosmetic issue; it has a direct impact on the animal’s health and overall well-being. Excess fat tissue places strain on the entire body and reduces the rabbit’s ability to move normally, maintain hygiene, and sustain healthy metabolism. These problems often develop gradually, which is why the seriousness of obesity may initially be overlooked.

One of the first issues caused by obesity relates to hygiene. As mobility decreases and the body becomes rounder, the rabbit may no longer be able to clean its hindquarters properly. The irritating effects of urine and feces on the skin can lead to moisture damage, skin infections, and painful lesions, particularly around the anus and abdominal area. Without treatment, skin problems can worsen rapidly.

Obesity also has a significant effect on digestion. Rabbits are highly sensitive to gastrointestinal disturbances, and reduced movement slows normal intestinal motility. This increases the risk of constipation and gastrointestinal stasis.

In addition, an overweight rabbit may not always be able to consume cecotrophs (night droppings), which are an essential part of rabbit digestion and nutrient absorption. These soft droppings are produced in the rectum through the action of cecal bacteria and are normally eaten directly from the anus by a healthy rabbit. By consuming cecotrophs, rabbits recycle vital vitamins, amino acids, and beneficial bacteria and yeasts back into their system. If cecotrophs are not consumed due to obesity or reduced mobility, nutrient deficiencies and worsening digestive problems may occur.

Excess body weight also places strain on the rabbit’s feet and musculoskeletal system. Rabbits lack protective foot pads, meaning their weight is borne directly on the soles of their feet. Long-term obesity increases the risk of skin damage and pododermatitis (sore hocks), and in severe cases inflammation may spread to deeper tissues. Pain further reduces movement, potentially worsening both weight issues and associated health problems.

Regarding internal organs, obesity places particular stress on the liver. Fat may accumulate in liver tissue, impairing normal liver function and potentially leading to serious metabolic disorders. Long-standing obesity can also strain the circulatory system and increase the workload on the heart and blood vessels. While heart disease is not among the most common clinical conditions in rabbits, the effects of prolonged obesity may be more pronounced in giant and large-breed rabbits.

Why Do Rabbits Become Overweight?

The most common cause of rabbit obesity is not lack of exercise, but an inappropriate diet. A diet consisting mainly of hay and water rarely leads to obesity, whereas excessive amounts of pellets, grain-based feeds, and treats significantly increase energy intake.

Rabbit weight management is based primarily on a high-quality, high-fibre diet, controlled energy intake, and regular body condition monitoring. Maintaining an ideal weight once it has been achieved is just as important as weight loss itself.

Support for Weight Management with the Right Rabbit Food

Rabbit weight management and the prevention of obesity can be supported through a purpose-designed diet. Cunipic Vet Line Obesity for Rabbits is a veterinarian-recommended complete food developed to support weight management, maintain ideal body condition, and promote balanced fat metabolism as part of comprehensive care.

The food is manufactured in the EU using European raw materials. It is not a medication, but a support diet suitable for long-term feeding. It does not replace veterinary treatment but can be used alongside it and as a preventive nutritional measure.

Cunipic Vet Line Obesity for Rabbits is based on high-quality meadow hay and natural medicinal plants, which help to reduce excess fat, support digestion, and promote natural dental wear.

Learn more about the food HERE

The scientific name of the guinea pig is Cavia aperea porcellus.
The average lifespan of a guinea pig is 6–8 years, though they may live up to 10 years.
A fully grown male guinea pig weighs 900–1500 g, while a female weighs 700–900 g.

Guinea pigs and humans share a long history. This adorable, cylindrical little creature was kept by the Inca people in the Andes of South America as early as 9000–3000 B.C. Spanish conquerors brought the guinea pig across the seas to Europe in the 1500s–1600s and to North America in the early 1800s. Thus began the guinea pig’s successful journey to becoming one of the most beloved pets.

• GUINEA PIG BEHAVIOR 
• GUINEA PIG SUPPLIES  
• GUINEA PIG FEEDING  
• GUINEA PIG TEETH  
• GUINEA PIG AND VITAMIN C  
• GUINEA PIG REPRODUCTION

GUINEA PIG BEHAVIOR 

GUINEA PIG BEHAVIOR IS INHERITED FROM WILD ANCESTORS
Guinea pigs carry the genes of their wild relatives and behave in many ways like their ancestors.
In nature, guinea pigs move in large herds with a hierarchical structure that maintains group harmony. The young are cared for collectively, and food is shared among all—making the guinea pig a highly social animal.
The herd is led by a male guinea pig. The lead male does not tolerate other sexually mature males in the group, so these males settle nearby, forming their own separate group of young males. Over time, members of the male group find their own females and establish new groups with them.
The herd has many females, and one of them is the leader. She acts as the mediator among the other females and the young.

GUINEA PIGS NEED COMPANY
A herd is very important to a guinea pig. When keeping them as pets, it's essential to consider their social nature. Guinea pigs should always be kept in pairs at a minimum. It’s best for the guinea pigs to be of the same sex, as males will mate even with their own mothers. If it turns out that the pair are of opposite sexes, you can consult a veterinarian about the possibility of neutering the male.
Females generally get along well with each other, but if you choose males, it’s best if they are from the same litter or introduced at a young age since adult males may not live peacefully together. Sometimes an adult male may accept another male if the other is still a baby—but each guinea pig has its own personality, so there's no guarantee of this.

DO YOU SPEAK GUINEA PIG?
Guinea pigs use a variety of sounds and gestures to communicate, some of which are easy for us humans to recognize.
If you hear your guinea pig making a high-pitched “wheek-wheek-wheek” sound, it’s begging for treats and attention. Guinea pigs quickly learn to associate the crinkling of vegetable bags and the sound of the fridge door with carrots and other goodies, and they’ll wheek to demand their share.
A guinea pig that enjoys being petted or spending time with another guinea pig will emit a relaxed “yodeling” sound, which is like small talk for guinea pigs. They also produce a hiccup-like sound to show they’re content.
A threatening sound is a low rumble, which can also indicate fear.
A warning noise includes rapid and forceful teeth chattering—whereas calm, contented teeth grinding resembles chewing cud.
If a guinea pig dislikes something, such as being touched on the rear or too much petting, it might make a quick, high-pitched squeak. At the same time, it may push with its hip—a signal worth respecting to defuse the situation.
Guinea pigs also make a grunting noise to greet other members of the herd. In addition to grunting, they may rub noses lightly upon meeting.
A guinea pig trying to show off or assert dominance walks with exaggerated, stiff legs. When a male courts a female, he sways his hips and rubs his bottom on the ground, leaving a strong scent. Courtship also includes a lot of sounds, like rumbling, snuffling, and teeth grinding. If the courtship isn’t successful, the female opens her mouth wide and shows her teeth—the male should try again later.
There are many more gestures and sounds in the guinea pig’s language—you’ll learn them as you observe your guinea pigs’ behavior closely.

GUINEA PIG SUPPLIES 

• Guinea pigs can live in a cage or in a pen built on the floor of the home. For two guinea pigs, a minimum space of 120 x 50 cm is often recommended. However, they should have much more room, as guinea pigs are curious and active movers. Especially if they have a minimum-sized living space, they should be allowed to roam on the floor under supervision, as long as the area is safe for them.
• Basic accessories for guinea pigs include a food dish, water bottle, hay rack, and at least one nesting house where they can hide. If you have multiple guinea pigs, there should be more nesting houses so that each guinea pig can take a comfortable nap under a roof if they wish.
• Ceramic and metal bowls work well as food dishes—the main thing is that the dish doesn’t tip over.
• Suitable bedding includes pine shavings, eco-fiber, straw pellets or straw. Shavings are the most affordable and absorb moisture well. Small rugs and mats are also commonly used as bedding—they’re easy to wash in a washing machine. Guinea pigs have very sensitive footpads, so coarse materials like cat litter are unsuitable and uncomfortable for them.
• Their habitat should be in a draft-free area.
• Direct sunlight can raise the temperature too much.
• The best place isn’t in the busiest part of the home, but it shouldn’t be “tucked away in the farthest corner” either, as guinea pigs enjoy observing family members.

BASIC CARE

• Guinea pigs are clean animals and don’t like dampness, so cleaning should be done at least twice a week, depending on the number of guinea pigs. At the same time, the bedding area should be thoroughly washed.
• Brushing with a soft brush is pleasant for guinea pigs, so they can be brushed even outside of shedding season. Long-haired guinea pigs need their coats brushed, combed, tied, or trimmed regularly.
• Nail trimming should be done once a month as needed. Nail trimming is easiest with round-bladed clippers designed for cats and rodents. Many pet stores also offer nail trimming for a small fee.
• Bathing is generally unnecessary, as guinea pigs groom themselves several times a day. If a guinea pig is visibly dirty or if it’s a long-haired breed, it can be bathed with an appropriate shampoo. After bathing, the guinea pig should be kept in a warm place, as they are prone to catching a chill when wet.
• The grease gland is a hairless area on a guinea pig’s rear, located where a tail might be if they had one. In male guinea pigs especially, this gland may become oily and require cleaning. This can be done using makeup remover and cotton wool designed for human skin.

GUINEA PIG FEEDING 

70% OF THE DIET SHOULD BE DRIED HAY
Scientifically, the guinea pig belongs to the suborder Hystricomorpha. This makes them herbivores, specifically plant-eaters, with a diet that consists mainly of hay. Guinea pigs should not consume any animal protein.
A good-quality hay should make up at least 70% of a guinea pig's diet. This hay can be a mix of timothy grass or other types of hay grasses. Hay should be available to guinea pigs at all times—they can never have too much.
High-quality dried hay doesn’t produce dust, and it only has the pleasant scent of dried hay. Good-quality hay is packaged in a way that allows a little airflow to prevent mold while keeping it from drying out excessively.
At home, if stored too openly, hay may become dusty, hard, and lose its flavor, so it’s best to store it in its original bag in a dry place. Alternatively, you can store it in a container with a lid, a storage box, or something similar that makes it easy to dispense.

20% COMPLETE FEED
In addition to hay, guinea pigs need a complete feed. There are many types of complete feeds on the market; here are some tips on choosing the right one:

• Grain-free is recommended. Grains are high in carbohydrates, which can lead to unnecessary weight gain. Choose a complete feed without grains.
• No additives, no sugar. Some feeds contain colorful pellets that are only for visual appeal, made with unnecessary dyes. Some also have added sugar for flavor. Choose feeds for your guinea pig that are 100% natural, without unnecessary additives or added sugar.
• Grain mixtures are fatty. Grain mixtures aren’t suitable for a guinea pig’s diet except as occasional treats—they are too fatty for regular meals and contain too little fiber.
• Fiber content is essential. Both long and short fibers are vital in guinea pig diets because their digestive tracts are long and somewhat sluggish. They lack the muscles to push food through, so new food pushes the old forward. Fasting doesn’t suit guinea pigs for this reason. Exercise also impacts digestion: lack of movement can cause gas and constipation.
  Long fibers aid digestion by helping move food through the intestines. Too little fiber slows food movement, which may lead to constipation and painful gas. You might notice softer, clumped stools, indicating fiber deficiency.
  Short fibers go to the cecum, where guinea pigs produce soft, sticky cecal droppings, or “night feces.” Guinea pigs eat these directly to recycle essential vitamins, bacteria, yeasts, and amino acids. Don’t be alarmed if you see a guinea pig eating its droppings—this is a healthy, essential habit.
• Pelleted food is preferred. Guinea pigs will pick out the tastiest bits if they can, leading to unbalanced nutrition. Pellets ensure each piece is nutritionally identical, preventing selective eating and keeping nutrition consistent. Pellets are also easy to portion out!
• Preparation matters. Most pellets for small pets are prepared at 150–160°C, which can destroy some nutrients. High-quality feeds like CUNIPIC’s Alpha Pro pellets are made at around 110°C, preserving nutrients so the guinea pig can benefit fully from the food.
• Nutritional values for complete feed: Below are recommended values, with (in parentheses) the values of CUNIPIC Alpha Pro Adult Guinea Pig feed:
  - Crude fat 2% or less (CUNIPIC 2%)
  - Crude fiber 16% or more (CUNIPIC 25–27%)
  - Crude protein for growing or pregnant guinea pigs, around 18%, and for adults, about 13% (CUNIPIC 14%)

8% VEGETABLES AND FRESH FOOD
In addition to hay and complete feed, around 8% of a guinea pig’s diet can be fresh foods like vegetables, root vegetables, and fruits. In the summer, you can gather dandelions, plantains, fireweed, grass, chickweed, and other garden plants. Make sure to pick plants from clean areas, away from city centers and roadsides.

2% TREATS
You can offer treats like CUNIPIC Alpha Pro Snack pellets that are specially made for guinea pigs.

GUINEA PIG TEETH 

A guinea pig's front and back teeth grow 1–2 mm per week throughout its lifetime, so they need constant work to maintain the proper length. Jaw movements and the shape of food affect how teeth wear down, as guinea pigs use their mouths differently depending on what they’re eating. Studies by the British Small Animal Veterinary Association indicate that many dental and digestive issues in guinea pigs stem from a grain-based diet.
A guinea pig's molars and premolars have evolved specifically for eating hay. This is another reason it’s important for hay to be available at all times. Additionally, it’s beneficial to provide branches from deciduous trees and other hard items to chew on—edible activity toys for small pets, such as those from the Cunipic Naturaliss series, are fun options!
If the teeth don’t wear down properly, the result can be molar or premolar spikes or overgrowth of the front teeth. Dental problems always require the help of a veterinarian. It’s not advisable to try trimming the teeth yourself, as there is a risk of breaking the tooth deep into the root.

GUINEA PIG AND VITAMIN C 

A guinea pig cannot produce vitamin C in its body, so it must be provided daily throughout its life. The recommended dosage for a healthy adult guinea pig is 10–30 mg per kilogram of body weight per day. A sick, pregnant, or nursing guinea pig may need up to 50 mg per kilogram per day.
There are both liquid and powdered vitamin C supplements available for guinea pigs. The liquid vitamin can be applied to a piece of cucumber or added to drinking water. However, the effectiveness of the vitamin halves within 24 hours in water, and it may be challenging to monitor the exact intake. Additionally, liquid vitamin C is slightly sour, so some guinea pigs may not like it. Often, powdered vitamin C is more popular. You’ll find out your guinea pig’s preference over time.
You can give a vitamin C supplement even if the guinea pig is eating pellets that already contain vitamin C. Other supplements can be given based on the guinea pig’s life stage and diet.

GUINEA PIG REPRODUCTION 

The estrous cycle in guinea pigs lasts approximately 14–15 days, and the gestation period is 63–70 days. Males reach sexual maturity at around 10 weeks, and females even earlier, as young as 5 weeks. However, the ideal age for the first breeding is 6–7 months.
Guinea pigs have only two teats, so litters are small, averaging 2–6 pups, with four being typical. Birth weights vary between 40–100 g. At birth, the pups are well-developed, with fur, open eyes, and the ability to hear. They begin eating solid food within just a few days.
Pups can be weaned from the mother at five weeks of age and when they weigh at least 300 g.

Rabbits are extremely popular pets around the world, and for good reason. They are a bit like small dogs: intelligent, full of personality, social, energetic – and incredibly cute!

Often, a rabbit is acquired as the only rabbit in a household, but in the wild, rabbits live in loose communities, not as loners. If you’re considering getting two rabbits, the best option would be a female and a neutered male, introduced to each other at a young age. An adult rabbit might be so territorial that it won’t accept a same-sex companion in its space at all.

There are many different types of rabbits

There are dozens of rabbit breeds and different breeds can interbreed.

Rabbit breeds are classified according to breed standards into different groups based on size and coat type. For example, dwarf breeds like the Netherland Dwarf weigh well under a kilogram, while giant breeds like the Flemish Giant can weigh up to 9 kg or more. Although there is a wide range of sizes, colors, coat types, and ear lengths, the basic care of all rabbits is the same.

A rabbit's lifespan is usually 6–9 years, but in the right conditions, a rabbit can live to be over 10 years old.

Pet rabbits have wild rabbit instincts

Wild rabbits live in large communities and create their own territories, which can be well over 20 hectares in suitable conditions. Pet rabbits also have wild rabbit instincts, so they too will form their territory. A pet rabbit's territory might be a designated enclosure, a room, or even the entire home – depending on what space the owner can provide.

Wild rabbits mark their territory using scent glands, urine, and droppings. If you see your rabbit rubbing its chin on a chair leg, it’s marking its territory, as scent glands in the rabbit’s lower jaw allow it to mark specific places and objects. Especially during the mating season, and other times, unneutered male rabbits might enthusiastically spray urine quite high. Additionally, a rabbit may mark its boundaries with droppings. The tendency to mark territory varies widely among rabbits—some are highly active in marking, while others don't engage in it at all. Both the intensity of the scent and the size of the scent glands can also differ from one rabbit to another. Fortunately, rabbit marking scents are usually undetectable to humans, but if a male rabbit is overly enthusiastic about marking his territory, neutering may help calm his instincts.

Tunnels and burrows – is there anything better?

Rabbits love digging! In the wild, rabbits dig tunnels with nesting chambers, so pet rabbits also follow their wild instincts by digging or at least trying to dig. They may vigorously scratch carpets and floors with their front paws, even if they can’t dig through laminate flooring. It would be wonderful to provide your rabbit with a deep digging box, perhaps filled with peat, where it could create more than just a crumpled carpet and floor noise.

Since tunnels, chambers, and nests are appealing and natural for rabbits, you can offer them various tubes, canopies, boxes, and huts where they feel safe. Remember to ensure that the nest places you provide are safe and sturdy enough for the rabbit. The best options are various tubes, huts, and nests designed specifically for rabbits, which are widely available in pet markets.

If you let your rabbit play outside in an enclosure without a floor, there is a great risk that the rabbit will dig a tunnel to escape. Therefore, an outdoor enclosure should have a mesh floor, or the edges of the enclosure should be buried deep into the ground. It's also good to have a roof on the enclosure – many birds of prey, foxes, and cats find rabbits an irresistibly tempting prey. The enclosure should always have hay and water available, as well as at least one roofed hut.

Do you speak rabbit?

Rabbits have their own language, which we humans can learn to interpret. Remember Disney’s Thumper rabbit, who thumped the ground with his hind leg? This is perhaps the most well-known rabbit gesture. A thump can indicate excitement, but it often serves as a rabbit's way of warning the community about an approaching predator or something else that scares the rabbit.

In a rabbit community, rabbits calm each other and strengthen their bonds by grooming each other's fur. If your rabbit does this to you, be happy: the rabbit considers you part of its community.

A rabbit might nudge you with its nose to get attention or perhaps a treat. On the other hand, it might also mean that the rabbit wants to get out of your lap – the interpretation of this gesture depends a bit on the situation.

Side leaps, high jumps, and crazy dashes indicate that your rabbit is in an especially joyful mood. When a small rabbit’s soul is full of energy and joy, it just can't stay in one place!

A rabbit can also show its displeasure. If it swats at you with its front paws like a boxer and even growls, it's strongly telling you to back off immediately. And you should, as a frightened or protective rabbit might even bite if cornered. Typically, such aggressive behavior is due to an unusual situation – by nature, a rabbit is not an aggressive animal. Perhaps your rabbit is extremely timid and just needs time, love, and patience? It’s also good to check if the rabbit has any pain that you haven’t noticed before.

When a rabbit is calm and feels safe, it might roll onto its side or even onto its back. Exposing its belly shows great trust. If you also hear your rabbit quietly grinding its teeth with contentment at the same time, it’s in a particularly blissful state.

Rabbit behavior includes many other gestures and sounds – you’ll learn to read your own rabbit’s "small talk" as you spend time with it daily.

Cage, enclosure, or total freedom?

A rabbit is an active and curious creature. In fact, movement is important for its digestion: too little activity can cause constipation in rabbits.

Constantly keeping such a busy and personable animal in a cage leads to a depressed and frustrated bunny. So, let your rabbit roam freely as much as possible every day. It doesn’t need to occupy the entire house, but it would be great to give it a room or two of safe space to explore.

However, a cage or enclosure is often necessary – it’s a safe place for the rabbit when the rest of the family is at work or school. It’s also the most logical place to keep the rabbit's water bottle, food dishes, nesting hut, hay, and litter box. Nesting huts can be placed elsewhere in the home too – variety is nice.

For a rabbit weighing 2–3 kg, the cage or enclosure should be 120 x 50 cm, and for a rabbit weighing 3–4 kg, it should be 140 x 50 cm. For giant breeds, even larger. You can never offer your rabbit too much space.

Rabbit equipment

You can get all kinds of fun things for your rabbit, from hammocks to rabbit toys, but at least these basics should be provided: a water bottle, a food dish, a hay rack, a nesting hut, and bedding or rag rugs for the living area floor.

A rabbit is naturally clean and can easily learn to use a litter box. Open cat litter boxes are popular among rabbits. A suitable bedding for the litter box might be Cunipic paper pellets – with some experimentation, you’ll find what works best.

What makes a home safe for a rabbit?

Curiosity leads rabbits to explore their environment by nibbling on anything they come across. Maybe an electric cord feels like a crispy branch? Or could that houseplant make a good snack? It's important to ensure that there’s nothing within the rabbit’s reach that could cause stomach troubles.

Other things that can be harmful or dangerous to a rabbit include open doors that invite escape, drafts that can cause colds, insecticides, and pets that might harm the rabbit. Excessive heat or humidity is also harmful. Creating suitable conditions isn’t rocket science – common sense and forethought are key.

What does a rabbit eat?

The rabbit's diet: 70% hay, 20% complete feed, 8% fresh food, 2% treats.

Optimal values for rabbit nutrition:

• Calcium 0.6-1%
• Phosphorus 0.4-0.8%
• Calcium:phosphorus ratio 2:1
• Fat 1-4%
• Fiber at least 16%
• Proteins 12-16%

70% Hay

Rabbits are hay-eaters, so hay is their main food. Studies show that rabbits eat more than 80 times a day, and to keep their digestion working properly, they must have dry hay available at all times. Dry hay typically refers to timothy hay, which can be thick-stemmed hay from the first cut of summer or leafier hay from the autumn harvest. Dry hay can be pure timothy hay, grassy meadow hay, or a mix that includes wild plants, herbs, flowers, or leaves. A tasty and high-quality option is alpine hay. The Cunipic series offers Naturaliss Alpine Hay, sourced from the clean mountain meadows of the Pyrenees, containing over 45 different types of grasses.

Whatever type of hay it is, the main thing is that it's of good quality, dust-free, mold-free, and tasty.

20% Complete Feed

There are many different types of complete feeds for rabbits. The most recommended are grain-free options, whose nutritional content meets the optimal values mentioned above.

Complete feed can be pelleted or a mixture of various plant-based ingredients. Both are fine, or you can combine both types for variety.

8% Fresh Food

Rabbits love fresh vegetables and fruits. Start introducing fresh food to a baby rabbit when it’s 12–16 weeks old.

An adult rabbit’s daily diet can include carrots, leaves, dandelions, herbs, and small pieces of fruit, but avoid giving too much sweet or starchy food. Avoid cabbage as well; it often causes stomach trouble in rabbits.

Always provide fresh food that’s been thoroughly washed. Check with your vet before picking wild herbs, and always choose those growing in pollution-free areas.

2% Treats

While it might be tempting to spoil your rabbit with treats, remember that treats should only make up a small portion of its diet. Offer them in moderation and always choose healthy, rabbit-safe options.

Water

Rabbits must always have access to water, which should be fresh and clean. The best way to ensure this is by providing water through a water bottle.

Fiber and Rabbits

Fiber is crucial for rabbits. Rabbits have a large and "lazy" digestive system that lacks significant muscular function to move food mass forward in the intestines. Dry hay is rich in long fibers that help with this process. Fiber helps move food mass through the intestines and keeps digestion running smoothly.

A diet with insufficient fiber can slow down the movement of food mass in the intestines, potentially leading to constipation and gas-related stomach pain. Clumped, looser-than-normal droppings can also indicate a lack of fiber.

In addition to long fibers, herbivores need short fibers, which are directed to the cecum. In the cecum, nutrients are stored in the feces. Herbivores eat these so-called cecotropes/night droppings to reabsorb the essential nutrients – it’s completely normal for a rabbit to occasionally eat its own droppings.

Dental Health

Rabbits' continuously growing teeth need constant work to stay healthy. When eating dry hay, rabbits move their jaws in a way that ideally wears down their teeth. You can often offer hard items for rabbits to chew on; leafy branches are more suitable, while dried bread should be offered less frequently (as it often contains a lot of grains and salt). However, the most important support for managing tooth growth is hay.

Other Rabbit Care Tips

• Nail trimming should be done as needed, usually every 3–4 weeks. The best tools for this are nail scissors designed for cats and rodents.
• Brushing may be necessary, especially during shedding seasons, but many rabbits enjoy brushing at other times too. Long-haired breeds require regular grooming. Angora rabbits also need to be sheared regularly.
• Ear cleaning is done as needed. If there is a lot of wax in the ear canals and the ears have a bad smell, veterinary assistance is required.

Breeding

Breeding rabbits should be done thoughtfully, ensuring that there will be a home for every baby bunny. If a male and female rabbit are kept together, the male will immediately mate with the female after the birth of the young, which is extremely demanding for the mother rabbit. The most responsible action is to sterilize either both or at least the male to avoid continuous litters.

Rabbits do not have a regular heat cycle, so they can become pregnant at any time, even immediately after giving birth. Rabbits reach sexual maturity at a very young age, just a few months old. However, the first mating should be done when the female is nearing a year old, depending on the breed, and the male is over seven months old.

The gestation period is about 30 days, after which the female gives birth to 1-8 blind and helpless kits, depending on the breed. Smaller breeds typically have larger litters than larger ones. The female creates a nest from fur and hay, in which she gives birth to her litter.

Weaning begins around six weeks of age, when the kits are separated from their mother and placed in their own spaces to learn how to grow into adult rabbits. The young rabbits can move to their new homes when they are eight weeks old.

Enjoy your time with your rabbits!

DWARF HAMSTERS

Order: Rodents (Rodentia)
Suborder: Mouse-like rodents (Myomorpha)
Family: Rats (Muridae)
Subfamily: Hamsters (Cricetinae)

There are several different types of dwarf hamsters. The most well-known species belong to two genera: Cricetulus and Phodopus. The three most common species kept as pets are:

Russian Dwarf Hamster (Winter White) (Phodopus sungorus sungorus)

Campbell's Dwarf Hamster (Phodopus sungorus cambelli)

The third familiar species is the Roborovski Dwarf Hamster (Phodopus roborovskii), which is the smallest and fastest of these species.

In addition, the Chinese Dwarf Hamster (Cricetulus griseus), which has two color variations—normal and spotted—is also kept as a pet.

HABITAT

In the wild, dwarf hamsters are found in Siberia, Mongolia, China, Kazakhstan, and Manchuria. Dwarf hamsters live in tunnels they dig in the ground, and once they reach sexual maturity, they may defend their territory fiercely from other individuals in the loosely populated community. Dwarf hamsters are most active at night, but they also move around during the day.

Dwarf hamsters are more social than golden hamsters (which are completely solitary), but there is always a possibility that two dwarf hamsters might not be able to live together in the same terrarium due to territorial disputes. Keep an eye on the situation and separate the hamsters into their own terrariums if conflicts arise. Roborovski and Campbell's hamsters generally adapt better to living with a companion than Winter Whites and Chinese Dwarf Hamsters.

Dwarf hamsters have poor eyesight, but their sense of smell and hearing are excellent. They communicate with each other using ultrasonic sounds, which humans cannot hear.

EQUIPMENT

All dwarf hamsters require similar basic care. It is best to house them in a glass rodent terrarium or a plastic Duna terrarium. Cages meant for golden hamsters have bars that are too far apart for dwarf hamsters, so they might escape.

The minimum floor dimensions of the enclosure should be 60 x 40 cm. The terrarium should include a hideouts, food dish, water bottle, a flat-bottomed running wheel about 20 cm in diameter, or a running saucer, as well as other accessories to encourage movement, such as climbing platforms. The best bedding material is wood shavings, but other wood-based bedding can also be used.

Dwarf hamsters' fur is oily, and they need the opportunity to take sand baths several times a week. The appropriate sand for this purpose is known as chinchilla bath sand, which should be placed a few centimeters deep in a sturdy container, such as a larger food bowl. Sand can be provided continuously, but if the dwarf hamster starts using the sand bath as a toilet, you can reduce the number of bath days.

Dwarf hamsters need hiding places, so small rodent huts, cardboard tubes, flowerpots, and other safe hiding spots are recommended. These little creatures are very active, so it's a good idea to provide them with plenty of things to explore, chew, climb, and wonder about—CUNIPIC's edible toys are perfect for dwarf hamsters!

FEEDING

The diet of a dwarf hamster should consist of 15-20% protein, 5-10% raw fat, and 8-11% fiber.

Dwarf hamsters are omnivores, and they enjoy both vegetables and meat. Their primary diet should consist of complete feed developed for dwarf hamsters. Recommended options for main food include CUNIPIC's Premium Hamster Mini & Mouse and Alpha Pro Hamster, which provide a tasty and, most importantly, appropriate diet for a dwarf hamster.

In addition, a moderate amount of fresh or dried vegetables, berries, fruits, and herbs should be offered, as well as lean meat, boiled eggs, and insects as sources of protein.

Too fatty food can easily cause obesity in dwarf hamsters. Additionally, dwarf hamsters are prone to diabetes, so their food should not contain added sugars. CUNIPIC foods do not contain added sugar or unnecessary additives like colorants.

Dwarf hamsters are picky eaters and tend to choose the tastiest, often unhealthiest part of the food offered. Therefore, it is important to provide additional foods in moderation, ensuring the dwarf hamster primarily eats healthy complete feed.

BASIC CARE

Fresh food should be replaced daily, and dry food should be added as needed. Water should be changed daily. The cage should be cleaned every week to three weeks, depending on the size of the enclosure, bedding quality, and bedding amount. Using a toilet tray designed for hamsters is recommended, as many dwarf hamsters are very clean animals, and using a toilet tray helps keep the cage clean. Food bowls, nesting boxes, and other equipment should be cleaned as necessary. Nail trimming is necessary if nails grow too long, but most of the time, it is not required. Brushing or washing is rarely needed, as dwarf hamsters clean their fur by licking it several times a day—they also bathe in the sand. Vaccinations or deworming are not required.

BREEDING

Breeding dwarf hamsters can be a rewarding experience, but it's important to remember that the young hamsters will need a new home once they are of the right age to be rehomed. Breeding should never be done hastily, but rather after ensuring where the young hamsters will be placed. Also, consider that the hamster pair chosen for breeding must be healthy and of breeding age.

Breeding dwarf hamsters is generally easier than breeding golden hamsters, as dwarf hamsters are more social. However, conflicts may still arise, so monitor the pair closely when introducing them. It is best to introduce them in a neutral location, such as a new or well-cleaned terrarium that is not within either hamster's territory.

The first litter can be bred when the dwarf hamster is about 3 months old. The gestation period is around 16-18 days, slightly longer for Roborovskis. The average litter size is 2-6 pups, and they are ready for rehoming at about 5 weeks of age. The mother should not be disturbed while caring for her pups, and it is best not to clean the enclosure during the first two weeks. A stressed mother may abandon or even eat her babies. Typically, dwarf hamster mothers are very responsible, and the pups have a good chance of growing into curious and active adult hamsters.

A beloved pet goes by many names. The little pet we know as a hamster is actually called a Syrian hamster or a golden hamster. Its scientific name is Mesocricetus auratus.

Hamsters have won over millions of pet families worldwide, and their popularity shows no signs of waning. In this guide, we will talk about hamster care and feeding. Enjoy the read!

Origin
Originally, the hamster comes from the Middle East, from where it was brought to Europe and the United States as a pet in the 1930s.

In the wild, hamsters live in steppes and deserts, where there are few trees. Thus, hamsters have never needed to climb, which is why evolution hasn't given them long tails like those of climbing rodents. A hamster's tail is a cute little nub, which is not useful for balance when climbing. However, hamsters may still enjoy climbing if given the chance, so it's essential to ensure they don't climb too high and risk injuring themselves. Instead of climbing, hamsters are excellent burrowers. In the wild, they live in tunnels, so pet hamsters also need the opportunity to dig or at least have cozy, dim nesting caves and houses.

Coloring
Wild hamsters have brown backs, heavily streaked with black, meaning there’s black mixed in with the brown. They have distinct white markings on different parts of their bodies. The belly and front legs, except for the paws, are black in wild hamsters. Through breeding, there are now many variations in coat type and dozens of color variations in pet hamsters. The short-haired, normal color is closest to the original appearance. The main difference is that hamsters with the normal color have ivory-colored bellies with a gray base color.

Hamster behavior
Adult hamsters are solitary creatures, so two hamsters cannot be housed together.

As the morning dawns, a hamster seeks a dim spot for a nap and wakes up to get active in the evening. Since long naps are natural for them, interacting with a hamster is best scheduled for the afternoon and evening.

The average lifespan of a hamster is 2-3 years.

Getting the hamster used to handling
When a hamster comes to a new home, it may be very timid, especially if the breeder hasn't handled the litter much. Also, every hamster has its personality: one may be trusting and calm from a young age, while another may be utterly terrified of humans. A frightened hamster will raise its front paws, pull its ears back, clack its teeth, and may hiss with its mouth open. With such a little friend, patience, calmness, and gentleness are key to building trust—if it's going to happen at all.

Always approach a hamster with calm movements, as it may get scared of sudden actions due to its nature as a prey animal. Before handling the hamster, it’s a good idea to wash your hands and rub them in the hamster’s bedding material, as unfamiliar scents can frighten the hamster.

It’s best for children to handle a hamster under adult supervision.

When moving a timid hamster from its enclosure, you can use a cardboard tube or another familiar hiding spot to help lift it.
Especially when a hamster has just been brought home, it’s good to handle it at floor level to prevent it from jumping and injuring itself. A better alternative than the floor alone is to use a large box or pen for handling practice, so the hamster can’t escape. When the hamster is in the box, you can place your hand inside and let the hamster sniff it calmly without trying to grab or pet it.

Some recommend offering treats from your hand during training, while others wonder if this only teaches the hamster that human fingers are worth tasting.

You can practice handling every day, and once the hamster is clearly used to your hand, you can start lifting it. When lifting a hamster, use both hands and gently but firmly enclose it between your palms. As the training progresses, you can lift the hamster directly from its enclosure into your lap.

Once trust is established, it’s good to get the hamster accustomed to being handled on its back, so nail trimming, dental checks, and a potential exhibition career go smoothly in the future.

Where should a hamster be kept?
A hamster can be housed in a cage, a Duna-type plastic terrarium, or a glass rodent terrarium. If using terrariums, adequate ventilation is important.

The floor area of the enclosure should be at least 90 x 40 cm, but the bigger, the better. The floor space is more important than height, but a hamster will use multiple levels if provided with a suitable ramp to climb to the upper tier.

The hamster’s enclosure should not be placed in a spot that’s too hot, such as direct sunlight, as temperatures above 27°C (81°F) put the hamster at risk of heatstroke. The enclosure also shouldn’t be in a drafty place, like under a window, as drafts can cause respiratory problems for the hamster.

What accessories does a hamster need?

• Bedding:
  There are many different types of bedding on the market, with wood shavings and aspen chips being among the most used. You can also mix different types of bedding, such as peat and shavings, together. Bedding should be changed every one or two weeks depending on the size of the enclosure and the bedding quality. If the enclosure is very large and has a separate toilet area, cleaning once a month is usually sufficient.
• Nesting house and hiding places:
  Hamsters need hiding places, preferably several, where they can retreat to sleep during the day. Ceramic or untreated wooden options are best, as hamsters can chew on plastic.
• Food bowls:
  Ceramic, glass, or metal food bowls work best. You can have several bowls if, for example, fresh food is served in its own separate dish.
• Water bottle or water bowl:
  It’s most convenient to provide drinking water from a rodent water bottle, as a bowl can tip over or get filled with shavings.
• Hamster running wheel
  When choosing an exercise wheel, make sure it’s large enough for the hamster to run with a straight back; the wheel’s diameter should be at least 28 cm.
• Hamster toilet:
  A separate toilet is not strictly necessary, but it significantly helps keep the enclosure clean. Hamsters are very organized little creatures that often choose a corner, house, or container as their toilet. There are ready-made hamster toilets available, and you can use special hamster toilet sand as bedding.
• Toys and activities:
  Hamsters are curious and active little creatures that need plenty to explore. You can offer them digging opportunities, climbing platforms, tubes, small cardboard boxes, willow bridges, toilet paper rolls, clean branches from deciduous trees, and all sorts of new things to discover from the nearby forest or the pet store shelves. Enrichment collected from outside should be heated in an oven at over 100°C for 10 minutes to kill any potential parasites, insects, and bacteria. Toys can be rotated to keep your hamster mentally stimulated, ensuring their life remains fun and interesting.
  Tip: CUNIPIC activity toys are perfect for this purpose!

Note that the plastic hamster exercise balls sold for hamsters in many places are not ideal for them at all. A hamster running inside the ball cannot explore its surroundings naturally or control the duration of its exertion.

What does a hamster eat?
A hamster is an omnivore, meaning it eats both plant-based and animal-based food. The primary diet consists of specially formulated hamster pellets and high-quality seed mixes. These should make up at least 75% of their food. The recommended nutritional values for a hamster's basic food depend on the hamster's age, condition, and other factors, but some general guidelines are:

• Protein: 17-22%
• Fiber: 8-10%
• Fat: 4-15%
• Ideal calcium-to-phosphorus ratio: 2:1

There are many different seed mixes available, but unfortunately, even if a package has a hamster on the front, the food inside isn’t always the most suitable. It’s good to check the back of the seed package and examine its contents: a variety of seed types and the proper nutrients listed above are a plus.

A complete feed like the CUNIPIC Alpha Pro Hamster is pellet-based and designed to meet a hamster’s nutritional needs. One advantage of pellet food over seed mixes is that it prevents selective feeding, ensuring the hamster consistently gets all the essential nutrients. The nutrients in CUNIPIC Alpha Pro Hamster are 18% protein, 9% fiber, and 5% fat, making it an ideal choice based on the recommended values.

In addition to basic food, hamsters should be given fresh vegetables and fruits. Also, provide animal-based protein such as eggs, meat, and insects. These should make up about 20% of their diet.

Hamsters can also have a “candy day,” but it should be sugar-free. Suitable treats include dried whole grain bread, millet sprays, and special hamster treats, such as those from the CUNIPIC range.

REPRODUCTION

Hamsters can reach sexual maturity as early as 4-6 weeks old. The best age for the first mating is around four months, but it should occur before the female hamster turns 10 months old.

Only breed healthy and well-conditioned animals. If possible, learn about your hamster’s background to rule out any potential genetic issues. The combination of certain color and coat variations can cause problems, as well as other factors that can lead to issues or even death in the offspring. For example, kink tail, a cartilage deformity in the tail, is a recessively inherited trait that can cause severe paralysis if it affects the spine.

A female hamster goes into heat approximately every four days for about 12 hours. The best time for mating is usually in the evening. It’s wise to perform the mating in a neutral location, such as a cage unfamiliar to both hamsters (or one that has been very thoroughly cleaned). This is because the female may be quite aggressive towards the male if she’s not in heat. Hamsters should be closely monitored when placed together. If a fight breaks out, separate them immediately—have sturdy gloves on hand for this.

After a successful mating, the pair should be separated again.

The gestation period for hamsters is about 16 days. A week before giving birth, the female will build a nest for her upcoming litter. By this time, the female should be left completely undisturbed to avoid stress, which in extreme cases can cause her to eat her newborns.

A typical litter consists of 5-12 pups, but up to 20 isn’t uncommon. At birth, the pups weigh only a few grams. They are hairless, blind, and deaf. Skin pigmentation and the beginnings of fur can be seen at around 4-5 days old. Their eyes open at about two weeks old.

The pups start nibbling on solid food at around one week old. They are ready to be rehomed at five weeks of age. About a week before rehoming, the pups will have fully transitioned to solid food, and it’s best to separate them into male and female groups by this time.

Hamsters are theoretically very efficient at reproducing, as the female may go into heat again just a few weeks after giving birth. This means that they could potentially produce up to ten litters a year. However, you should only breed a hamster a few times during its lifetime, as raising a litter is very demanding for the mother.

If you are planning for your hamster to have offspring, make sure to research the topic thoroughly in advance and plan carefully where the pups will go. Hamsters do not need to have babies at all, and this is the most common situation. You can enjoy having your hamster as a pet without worrying about raising a litter, and simply focus on the time you spend together.

Enjoy your moments with your little furry friend!