Feeding a puppy correctly is key to supporting its growth, development, and overall health. Different-sized breeds have unique nutritional needs, and an appropriate diet helps prevent growth issues and supports bone, muscle, and immune system health. Vitamins, minerals, and essential fatty acids—particularly Omega-3 and Omega-6—are crucial for growth support. Additionally, natural antioxidants like polyphenols and carotenoids offer cell-protecting benefits and strengthen the immune system. Meat should be the main ingredient in a puppy’s diet, and grain-free options are often recommended to support digestion.

Small Breeds

A dog breed is generally considered small if its adult weight is under 10 kg. Examples of such breeds include the Chihuahua, Prague Ratter, Scottish Terrier, Norwich Terrier, Dachshund, and Yorkshire Terrier.

Small breed puppies grow quickly, reaching their full size by about one year. With small stomachs and fast metabolisms, they need food that is high in calories, protein, and fatty acids to sustain their energy for active growth. Food with small kibble size is ideal for these puppies to make it easier to eat.

Medium Breeds

A dog breed can be considered medium-sized if its adult weight is approximately 10–25 kg. Examples include the Airedale Terrier, Australian Cattle Dog, Border Collie, Siberian Husky, Cocker Spaniel, and Australian Kelpie.

The growth of medium-sized breeds is slightly more gradual than that of small breeds. Their diet should be balanced, as a diet too high in energy can lead to rapid growth, increasing the risk of developmental issues. Puppy food for medium-sized breeds is recommended to have slightly less protein and calories than that for small breeds to ensure controlled growth, supporting healthy bones and muscles.

Large and Giant Breeds

A breed is considered large when its adult weight approaches 30 kg and giant when it exceeds 45 kg. Large breeds include the Alaskan Malamute, German Shepherd, Doberman, Golden Retriever, and Labrador Retriever, while giant breeds include the Bordeaux Dog, Cane Corso, Leonberger, Mastiff, and Great Dane.

Large and giant breed puppies grow more slowly and can continue to grow until they are 18-24 months old. These puppies need a diet lower in calories and calcium to avoid issues with joints and skeletal development due to rapid growth. Food with supportive ingredients like glucosamine and chondroitin is beneficial for these puppies.

Note: The weight ranges mentioned above are approximate. Categorizing breeds as small, medium, large, and giant is not an official classification, and weight ranges may vary across sources. Additionally, each dog is an individual, and there can be considerable differences even within the same breed.

Vitamins and Minerals in Puppy Nutrition

Puppy growth and development require a broad range of vitamins and minerals.

Calcium and Phosphorus: A balanced ratio of these minerals supports bone growth and prevents developmental issues. Calcium aids in the growth of bones and teeth, but excessive amounts can cause bone growth abnormalities. On average, a growing puppy needs about 500 mg of calcium per kilogram of body weight daily. Phosphorus works alongside calcium, supporting muscle and nervous system functions.

Vitamin D: This vitamin aids calcium absorption, which is crucial for bone and teeth development. However, excess Vitamin D can lead to calcium buildup in tissues, which is harmful.

Vitamin A: Promotes the development of vision, immune function, and the health of skin and mucous membranes. It also plays a role in the healthy growth of soft tissues and bones.

B Vitamins (B1, B2, B6, B12): These are essential for energy metabolism, nervous system function, and red blood cell production. They also help maintain healthy skin and coat, especially important for long-haired breeds. For example, B1 (thiamine) is key for carbohydrate energy production, while B6 supports red blood cell formation.

Vitamin E: As an antioxidant, Vitamin E protects cells from oxidation and supports immune function. It is important for muscle and nervous system health and helps shield cells from damage.

Vitamin C: Vitamin C strengthens the immune system and also acts as an antioxidant. For a growing puppy, Vitamin C is beneficial for immune support and helps prevent inflammation.

Omega-3 and Omega-6 Fatty Acids

Omega-3 Fatty Acids (EPA and DHA): DHA, in particular, supports brain development and learning ability. Foods such as fish, especially fatty varieties like salmon or herring, are rich in DHA. EPA is beneficial for reducing inflammation and supporting joint health. Both of these omega-3s are advantageous for cognitive development in puppies and aid in enhancing learning capacity.

Omega-6 Fatty Acids: Omega-6 fatty acids contribute to skin and coat health and provide an energy boost, essential for actively growing puppies. Omega-6 also aids in tissue healing.

Natural Antioxidants: Polyphenols and Carotenoids

Polyphenols: These plant-derived antioxidants can support immune function and protect cells from damage. Found in foods like berries, polyphenols in a dog’s diet may help reduce inflammation and protect cellular health against oxidation.

Carotenoids: Carotenoids, such as beta-carotene and lutein, are natural pigments with antioxidant properties. Beta-carotene converts to vitamin A in the dog’s body, supporting vision, skin health, and the immune system. Lutein particularly supports eye health and may help prevent age-related changes.

Meat Content and Quality in the Diet

In a puppy's diet, meat should be the main ingredient as it provides high-quality protein and all the essential amino acids necessary for growth. Meat supports the development of muscles, bones, and tissues. Ideally, a puppy's food should contain 50–70% meat to ensure it receives the necessary amino acids and protein for muscle development. By selecting high-quality meat, you also ensure the puppy receives natural minerals and vitamins.

The Role of Grains in Dog Nutrition

Grains like wheat and corn are not ideal as a dog's digestive system is not equipped to handle large amounts of carbohydrates. Some dogs can tolerate gluten-free grains such as rice and oats, but a grain-free diet reduces the risk of digestive issues and allergies. Many breeders prefer grain-free food for puppies to minimize such risks.

How to Choose the Right Puppy Food?

Here are some tips for selecting the right food:

1. Check the Nutritional Content: Good dry food should contain high-quality meat as the main ingredient. Look for products with at least 30% protein and around 15–20% fat.

2. Choose According to Size: Puppy food varies depending on the breed size, as large and small breeds grow at different rates. Reputable dog food manufacturers offer specialized formulas for small, medium, and large breeds, which can significantly ease your selection process.

3. Omega-3 and Omega-6 Fatty Acids: Omega fatty acids, such as DHA, are essential for the development of the puppy's brain and eyes. Look for foods that contain these fatty acids from fish or flaxseeds.

4. Vitamins and Minerals: Growing puppies need calcium, phosphorus, vitamin A, and other essential vitamins and minerals to support healthy growth. Ensure the food you choose contains these key nutrients.

5. Avoid Unnecessary Additives: Try to avoid foods that contain artificial additives, colors, or cheap fillers like corn or wheat, which can cause digestive issues, especially for dogs with sensitive stomachs.

A dog’s temperature regulation is a complex cooperation between tissues and organs, with the body temperature being monitored and maintained by the thermoregulatory center in the brain’s hypothalamus. Many factors affect how successfully a dog can maintain an appropriate temperature—coat type, age, diet, health, and other elements should be considered, as every furry friend is unique, and even dogs of the same breed can have very different abilities to adapt to various temperatures.

Winter – What to Consider?

Winter brings cold temperatures, frost, and snow, which can be challenging for dogs. Some dogs are unfazed by the cold, while others need our help to stay healthy in freezing weather. Why is this?

Coat Quality Matters

Different dog breeds have varying coat qualities. Some dog breeds have a double coat, meaning they have a protective outer coat and, in addition, an insulating undercoat that changes yearly. These breeds are generally better equipped to handle the cold and don’t need a jacket in winter, as the undercoat acts like a down jacket, protecting them from the cold. While all dogs’ coats require care, it’s especially important for double-coated breeds. A dirty, matted, or un-shed undercoat won’t do its job properly, and the dog may feel cold despite having a double coat. Additionally, illness, poor diet, or age-related issues that disrupt the shedding of the undercoat can cause problems with temperature regulation.

Proper nutrition, brushing, bathing, and other basic care are essential to keeping the undercoat in good condition so it can do its job, even in cold weather.

Breeds with double coats include Border Collie, Labrador Retriever, Samoyed, Husky, Alaskan Malamute, Corgi, German Shepherd, Rottweiler, Finnish Spitz, Finnish Lapphund, and Long-haired Collie.

Dogs with a single coat have only the outer coat and little to no undercoat. The fur types of single-coated dogs vary greatly: their coat can be thin or dense, and its length or texture can vary. No matter how long or thick the outer coat is, it doesn’t insulate like an undercoat. For this reason, it’s recommended to put a weather-appropriate coat on these dogs to keep them warm.

Breeds with a single coat include Poodles, Chihuahuas, Greyhounds, Bulldogs, Lagottos, Bichon Frisé, Labradoodles, Coton de Tulear, Yorkshire Terriers, and Papillons.

If your dog is not one of the mentioned breeds or is a mixed breed, you can determine its coat type by gently pulling back the fur. Double-coated dogs will have an outer coat and shorter hairs closer to the skin. The shorter hairs are the undercoat, which feels wool-like and soft compared to the outer coat.

Protecting Paws from Ice, Snow, and Salt

In winter, a dog’s paws are subjected to cold, ice, and road salt. Salt can irritate the paws and even cause sores, while icy surfaces can damage the pads. Additionally, snow has an annoying habit of clumping between the paws and pads. How can you help your dog?

Regularly cleaning your dog’s paws after walks and applying paw balm helps protect them.

Trimming the fur between the pads regularly with blunt-tipped scissors is also a good idea. Short fur won’t provide as much warmth as long fur, but it significantly reduces the chance of snow clumping.

The best solution is to use boots designed for winter conditions. Proper winter boots protect the pads from snow, stay securely on, and keep the paws warm, making walks as enjoyable for the dog as they are for us in our winter shoes.

Exercise and Muscle Health in Winter

Cold weather may reduce a dog’s desire to move, but regular exercise is still important. Before going outside, ensure your dog warms up properly to prevent its muscles from stiffening in the cold. Long periods of standing still in the cold can lead to chills or muscle stiffness, so continuous movement is key.

Feeding and Energy Needs

Dogs that spend a lot of time outdoors in winter may require more energy to maintain their body temperature. This is especially true for working and hunting dogs or other active dogs. On the other hand, indoor dogs that spend most of their time in a warm environment typically don’t need extra food. Overfeeding in winter can lead to weight gain, which can strain a dog’s joints and overall health.

Summer – The Challenges of Heat and Sun

Dogs regulate their body temperature primarily by panting. They have very few sweat glands, and they are located in the paw pads.

As a result, summer heat can be challenging for dogs. Overheating can be dangerous and, in extreme cases, lead to heatstroke. However, with the right precautions, you can protect your dog from the heat.

Preventing Overheating

Dogs regulate their body temperature through panting. However, recent studies suggest that it’s not just through the mouth, but significant airflow also passes through the nasal cavity. The blood circulation in the nasal mucosa is directly connected to the blood vessels in the brain, thus regulating brain temperature. The longer the nose, the larger the surface area of the nasal mucosa and its cooling effect. Thus, during summer heat, it’s especially challenging for short-nosed dogs to cool themselves naturally.

Regardless of nose length, never force a dog to stay in the sun, in a hot car, or any other too-hot place against its will. It’s also important to avoid excessive physical exertion during the hottest parts of the day. Shaded areas and cool spaces, such as air-conditioned rooms or those with ventilation, help keep the dog cool. If your dog is outdoors, ensure it always has access to shade.

Water Supply

Adequate hydration is essential for a dog’s well-being in hot weather. Fresh water should always be available, and for longer walks, it’s a good idea to carry water and a travel bowl. Placing water bowls in multiple locations both indoors and outdoors can help ensure the dog drinks enough.

Sunburn

Thin-coated or hairless dogs are susceptible to sunburn. Areas like the nose, ears, and belly are particularly vulnerable to burning in the sun. Special sunscreens made for dogs can be used to protect these sensitive areas.

Summer Paw Care

Hot asphalt and sand can burn a dog’s paws. A good rule of thumb is to test the surface with your hand: if it feels hot to your hand, it’s likely too hot for your dog’s paws.

You can buy summer boots to protect your dog’s paws from hot surfaces. When choosing summer boots, keep in mind that dogs sweat through their pads, so the boot’s sole should protect against excessive heat, but the boot itself should be breathable to allow the pads to participate in temperature regulation.

Regularly applying paw balm is also highly recommended to keep the pads soft and supple.

Cooling Techniques

You can make your dog more comfortable by cooling its environment. Cooling products for dogs, such as scarves and mats, can help keep the dog cool.

Many dogs love swimming, and it’s an excellent way to cool down in the summer heat. However, for dense-coated dogs, it’s important to ensure the dog dries completely between swims. Prolonged moisture on the skin can lead to the development of hot spots, a skin infection we’ve covered in more detail [here].

Summary

Regulating a dog’s temperature requires attention during both winter’s cold and summer’s heat. In winter, it’s important to protect dogs from the cold and ensure paw health. In summer, preventing overheating, ensuring adequate water intake, and protecting paws are critical. Every dog is unique, and their needs vary, but general precautions can help ensure your dog stays healthy and happy all year round.

A beloved pet goes by many names. The little pet we know as a hamster is actually called a Syrian hamster or a golden hamster. Its scientific name is Mesocricetus auratus.

Hamsters have won over millions of pet families worldwide, and their popularity shows no signs of waning. In this guide, we will talk about hamster care and feeding. Enjoy the read!

Origin
Originally, the hamster comes from the Middle East, from where it was brought to Europe and the United States as a pet in the 1930s.

In the wild, hamsters live in steppes and deserts, where there are few trees. Thus, hamsters have never needed to climb, which is why evolution hasn't given them long tails like those of climbing rodents. A hamster's tail is a cute little nub, which is not useful for balance when climbing. However, hamsters may still enjoy climbing if given the chance, so it's essential to ensure they don't climb too high and risk injuring themselves. Instead of climbing, hamsters are excellent burrowers. In the wild, they live in tunnels, so pet hamsters also need the opportunity to dig or at least have cozy, dim nesting caves and houses.

Coloring
Wild hamsters have brown backs, heavily streaked with black, meaning there’s black mixed in with the brown. They have distinct white markings on different parts of their bodies. The belly and front legs, except for the paws, are black in wild hamsters. Through breeding, there are now many variations in coat type and dozens of color variations in pet hamsters. The short-haired, normal color is closest to the original appearance. The main difference is that hamsters with the normal color have ivory-colored bellies with a gray base color.

Hamster behavior
Adult hamsters are solitary creatures, so two hamsters cannot be housed together.

As the morning dawns, a hamster seeks a dim spot for a nap and wakes up to get active in the evening. Since long naps are natural for them, interacting with a hamster is best scheduled for the afternoon and evening.

The average lifespan of a hamster is 2-3 years.

Getting the hamster used to handling
When a hamster comes to a new home, it may be very timid, especially if the breeder hasn't handled the litter much. Also, every hamster has its personality: one may be trusting and calm from a young age, while another may be utterly terrified of humans. A frightened hamster will raise its front paws, pull its ears back, clack its teeth, and may hiss with its mouth open. With such a little friend, patience, calmness, and gentleness are key to building trust—if it's going to happen at all.

Always approach a hamster with calm movements, as it may get scared of sudden actions due to its nature as a prey animal. Before handling the hamster, it’s a good idea to wash your hands and rub them in the hamster’s bedding material, as unfamiliar scents can frighten the hamster.

It’s best for children to handle a hamster under adult supervision.

When moving a timid hamster from its enclosure, you can use a cardboard tube or another familiar hiding spot to help lift it.
Especially when a hamster has just been brought home, it’s good to handle it at floor level to prevent it from jumping and injuring itself. A better alternative than the floor alone is to use a large box or pen for handling practice, so the hamster can’t escape. When the hamster is in the box, you can place your hand inside and let the hamster sniff it calmly without trying to grab or pet it.

Some recommend offering treats from your hand during training, while others wonder if this only teaches the hamster that human fingers are worth tasting.

You can practice handling every day, and once the hamster is clearly used to your hand, you can start lifting it. When lifting a hamster, use both hands and gently but firmly enclose it between your palms. As the training progresses, you can lift the hamster directly from its enclosure into your lap.

Once trust is established, it’s good to get the hamster accustomed to being handled on its back, so nail trimming, dental checks, and a potential exhibition career go smoothly in the future.

Where should a hamster be kept?
A hamster can be housed in a cage, a Duna-type plastic terrarium, or a glass rodent terrarium. If using terrariums, adequate ventilation is important.

The floor area of the enclosure should be at least 90 x 40 cm, but the bigger, the better. The floor space is more important than height, but a hamster will use multiple levels if provided with a suitable ramp to climb to the upper tier.

The hamster’s enclosure should not be placed in a spot that’s too hot, such as direct sunlight, as temperatures above 27°C (81°F) put the hamster at risk of heatstroke. The enclosure also shouldn’t be in a drafty place, like under a window, as drafts can cause respiratory problems for the hamster.

What accessories does a hamster need?

• Bedding:
  There are many different types of bedding on the market, with wood shavings and aspen chips being among the most used. You can also mix different types of bedding, such as peat and shavings, together. Bedding should be changed every one or two weeks depending on the size of the enclosure and the bedding quality. If the enclosure is very large and has a separate toilet area, cleaning once a month is usually sufficient.
• Nesting house and hiding places:
  Hamsters need hiding places, preferably several, where they can retreat to sleep during the day. Ceramic or untreated wooden options are best, as hamsters can chew on plastic.
• Food bowls:
  Ceramic, glass, or metal food bowls work best. You can have several bowls if, for example, fresh food is served in its own separate dish.
• Water bottle or water bowl:
  It’s most convenient to provide drinking water from a rodent water bottle, as a bowl can tip over or get filled with shavings.
• Hamster running wheel
  When choosing an exercise wheel, make sure it’s large enough for the hamster to run with a straight back; the wheel’s diameter should be at least 28 cm.
• Hamster toilet:
  A separate toilet is not strictly necessary, but it significantly helps keep the enclosure clean. Hamsters are very organized little creatures that often choose a corner, house, or container as their toilet. There are ready-made hamster toilets available, and you can use special hamster toilet sand as bedding.
• Toys and activities:
  Hamsters are curious and active little creatures that need plenty to explore. You can offer them digging opportunities, climbing platforms, tubes, small cardboard boxes, willow bridges, toilet paper rolls, clean branches from deciduous trees, and all sorts of new things to discover from the nearby forest or the pet store shelves. Enrichment collected from outside should be heated in an oven at over 100°C for 10 minutes to kill any potential parasites, insects, and bacteria. Toys can be rotated to keep your hamster mentally stimulated, ensuring their life remains fun and interesting.
  Tip: CUNIPIC activity toys are perfect for this purpose!

Note that the plastic hamster exercise balls sold for hamsters in many places are not ideal for them at all. A hamster running inside the ball cannot explore its surroundings naturally or control the duration of its exertion.

What does a hamster eat?
A hamster is an omnivore, meaning it eats both plant-based and animal-based food. The primary diet consists of specially formulated hamster pellets and high-quality seed mixes. These should make up at least 75% of their food. The recommended nutritional values for a hamster's basic food depend on the hamster's age, condition, and other factors, but some general guidelines are:

• Protein: 17-22%
• Fiber: 8-10%
• Fat: 4-15%
• Ideal calcium-to-phosphorus ratio: 2:1

There are many different seed mixes available, but unfortunately, even if a package has a hamster on the front, the food inside isn’t always the most suitable. It’s good to check the back of the seed package and examine its contents: a variety of seed types and the proper nutrients listed above are a plus.

A complete feed like the CUNIPIC Alpha Pro Hamster is pellet-based and designed to meet a hamster’s nutritional needs. One advantage of pellet food over seed mixes is that it prevents selective feeding, ensuring the hamster consistently gets all the essential nutrients. The nutrients in CUNIPIC Alpha Pro Hamster are 18% protein, 9% fiber, and 5% fat, making it an ideal choice based on the recommended values.

In addition to basic food, hamsters should be given fresh vegetables and fruits. Also, provide animal-based protein such as eggs, meat, and insects. These should make up about 20% of their diet.

Hamsters can also have a “candy day,” but it should be sugar-free. Suitable treats include dried whole grain bread, millet sprays, and special hamster treats, such as those from the CUNIPIC range.

REPRODUCTION

Hamsters can reach sexual maturity as early as 4-6 weeks old. The best age for the first mating is around four months, but it should occur before the female hamster turns 10 months old.

Only breed healthy and well-conditioned animals. If possible, learn about your hamster’s background to rule out any potential genetic issues. The combination of certain color and coat variations can cause problems, as well as other factors that can lead to issues or even death in the offspring. For example, kink tail, a cartilage deformity in the tail, is a recessively inherited trait that can cause severe paralysis if it affects the spine.

A female hamster goes into heat approximately every four days for about 12 hours. The best time for mating is usually in the evening. It’s wise to perform the mating in a neutral location, such as a cage unfamiliar to both hamsters (or one that has been very thoroughly cleaned). This is because the female may be quite aggressive towards the male if she’s not in heat. Hamsters should be closely monitored when placed together. If a fight breaks out, separate them immediately—have sturdy gloves on hand for this.

After a successful mating, the pair should be separated again.

The gestation period for hamsters is about 16 days. A week before giving birth, the female will build a nest for her upcoming litter. By this time, the female should be left completely undisturbed to avoid stress, which in extreme cases can cause her to eat her newborns.

A typical litter consists of 5-12 pups, but up to 20 isn’t uncommon. At birth, the pups weigh only a few grams. They are hairless, blind, and deaf. Skin pigmentation and the beginnings of fur can be seen at around 4-5 days old. Their eyes open at about two weeks old.

The pups start nibbling on solid food at around one week old. They are ready to be rehomed at five weeks of age. About a week before rehoming, the pups will have fully transitioned to solid food, and it’s best to separate them into male and female groups by this time.

Hamsters are theoretically very efficient at reproducing, as the female may go into heat again just a few weeks after giving birth. This means that they could potentially produce up to ten litters a year. However, you should only breed a hamster a few times during its lifetime, as raising a litter is very demanding for the mother.

If you are planning for your hamster to have offspring, make sure to research the topic thoroughly in advance and plan carefully where the pups will go. Hamsters do not need to have babies at all, and this is the most common situation. You can enjoy having your hamster as a pet without worrying about raising a litter, and simply focus on the time you spend together.

Enjoy your moments with your little furry friend!

As the brightness of summer fades away, we enter the time of year when twilight and the darkness of night dominate much of the day. Around the world, autumn and winter bring varying lengths of darkness depending on location. In some northern regions, nightfall can last nearly all day, while further south, darkness may be shorter but still ample through fall and winter.

Whether dark or light, us dog lovers must faithfully take our furry friends for walks. Attaching a reflector or light to our own jackets is second nature for many, and the smartest walkers may even wear headlamps or reflective vests. But do we remember to equip our four-legged walking partners so they don’t vanish into the darkness?

Globally, it’s estimated that there are millions of dogs and even more cats, and unfortunately, many of these animals go outdoors in the dark without any safety gear. While reflectors may not be crucial on a rural trail, they are essential in more populated areas. Drivers, cyclists, and other traffic participants might not see a dog or cat that blends into the dark, increasing the risk of accidents.

What kind of gear?
Outfitting pets for nighttime walks is, thankfully, quite simple. There are plenty of options on the market to make evening strolls safer with minimal effort. Flashing lights and different types of reflectors are easy to use and can be attached to pet gear, such as harnesses. Many of these items can be used by both pets and owners – it’s easy to match reflectors for both!

Many pet products are designed with visibility in mind. Reflective piping on a dog’s harness or collar works well for short-haired pets, while battery-powered lighted collars can also improve visibility. However, with long-haired dogs, reflectors can get hidden by their fur, making a leash with woven or sewn-in reflective strips a better option. Many dog coats come with reflective edges, and reflective vests, in particular, are ideal for long-haired dogs, as they stay visible despite thick fur.

For maximum visibility, pets can wear reflective vests made from brightly colored fabrics, such as neon yellow or orange, with large reflective areas to ensure they stand out, even in complete darkness. The best visibility comes from combining different items—like a reflective leash, a high-visibility attention vest layered over a harness with reflective strips, and reflective booties. With all of these, your dog is sure to shine!

Using multiple reflective products makes nighttime walks brilliantly safe!

FINNERO offers a variety of products with built-in reflectivity:

REFLECTIVE VESTS >
LEASHES >
HARNESSES >
JACKETS >

The scientific name of the guinea pig is Cavia aperea porcellus.
The average lifespan of a guinea pig is 6–8 years, though they may live up to 10 years.
A fully grown male guinea pig weighs 900–1500 g, while a female weighs 700–900 g.

Guinea pigs and humans share a long history. This adorable, cylindrical little creature was kept by the Inca people in the Andes of South America as early as 9000–3000 B.C. Spanish conquerors brought the guinea pig across the seas to Europe in the 1500s–1600s and to North America in the early 1800s. Thus began the guinea pig’s successful journey to becoming one of the most beloved pets.

• GUINEA PIG BEHAVIOR 
• GUINEA PIG SUPPLIES  
• GUINEA PIG FEEDING  
• GUINEA PIG TEETH  
• GUINEA PIG AND VITAMIN C  
• GUINEA PIG REPRODUCTION

GUINEA PIG BEHAVIOR 

GUINEA PIG BEHAVIOR IS INHERITED FROM WILD ANCESTORS
Guinea pigs carry the genes of their wild relatives and behave in many ways like their ancestors.
In nature, guinea pigs move in large herds with a hierarchical structure that maintains group harmony. The young are cared for collectively, and food is shared among all—making the guinea pig a highly social animal.
The herd is led by a male guinea pig. The lead male does not tolerate other sexually mature males in the group, so these males settle nearby, forming their own separate group of young males. Over time, members of the male group find their own females and establish new groups with them.
The herd has many females, and one of them is the leader. She acts as the mediator among the other females and the young.

GUINEA PIGS NEED COMPANY
A herd is very important to a guinea pig. When keeping them as pets, it's essential to consider their social nature. Guinea pigs should always be kept in pairs at a minimum. It’s best for the guinea pigs to be of the same sex, as males will mate even with their own mothers. If it turns out that the pair are of opposite sexes, you can consult a veterinarian about the possibility of neutering the male.
Females generally get along well with each other, but if you choose males, it’s best if they are from the same litter or introduced at a young age since adult males may not live peacefully together. Sometimes an adult male may accept another male if the other is still a baby—but each guinea pig has its own personality, so there's no guarantee of this.

DO YOU SPEAK GUINEA PIG?
Guinea pigs use a variety of sounds and gestures to communicate, some of which are easy for us humans to recognize.
If you hear your guinea pig making a high-pitched “wheek-wheek-wheek” sound, it’s begging for treats and attention. Guinea pigs quickly learn to associate the crinkling of vegetable bags and the sound of the fridge door with carrots and other goodies, and they’ll wheek to demand their share.
A guinea pig that enjoys being petted or spending time with another guinea pig will emit a relaxed “yodeling” sound, which is like small talk for guinea pigs. They also produce a hiccup-like sound to show they’re content.
A threatening sound is a low rumble, which can also indicate fear.
A warning noise includes rapid and forceful teeth chattering—whereas calm, contented teeth grinding resembles chewing cud.
If a guinea pig dislikes something, such as being touched on the rear or too much petting, it might make a quick, high-pitched squeak. At the same time, it may push with its hip—a signal worth respecting to defuse the situation.
Guinea pigs also make a grunting noise to greet other members of the herd. In addition to grunting, they may rub noses lightly upon meeting.
A guinea pig trying to show off or assert dominance walks with exaggerated, stiff legs. When a male courts a female, he sways his hips and rubs his bottom on the ground, leaving a strong scent. Courtship also includes a lot of sounds, like rumbling, snuffling, and teeth grinding. If the courtship isn’t successful, the female opens her mouth wide and shows her teeth—the male should try again later.
There are many more gestures and sounds in the guinea pig’s language—you’ll learn them as you observe your guinea pigs’ behavior closely.

GUINEA PIG SUPPLIES 

• Guinea pigs can live in a cage or in a pen built on the floor of the home. For two guinea pigs, a minimum space of 120 x 50 cm is often recommended. However, they should have much more room, as guinea pigs are curious and active movers. Especially if they have a minimum-sized living space, they should be allowed to roam on the floor under supervision, as long as the area is safe for them.
• Basic accessories for guinea pigs include a food dish, water bottle, hay rack, and at least one nesting house where they can hide. If you have multiple guinea pigs, there should be more nesting houses so that each guinea pig can take a comfortable nap under a roof if they wish.
• Ceramic and metal bowls work well as food dishes—the main thing is that the dish doesn’t tip over.
• Suitable bedding includes pine shavings, eco-fiber, straw pellets or straw. Shavings are the most affordable and absorb moisture well. Small rugs and mats are also commonly used as bedding—they’re easy to wash in a washing machine. Guinea pigs have very sensitive footpads, so coarse materials like cat litter are unsuitable and uncomfortable for them.
• Their habitat should be in a draft-free area.
• Direct sunlight can raise the temperature too much.
• The best place isn’t in the busiest part of the home, but it shouldn’t be “tucked away in the farthest corner” either, as guinea pigs enjoy observing family members.

BASIC CARE

• Guinea pigs are clean animals and don’t like dampness, so cleaning should be done at least twice a week, depending on the number of guinea pigs. At the same time, the bedding area should be thoroughly washed.
• Brushing with a soft brush is pleasant for guinea pigs, so they can be brushed even outside of shedding season. Long-haired guinea pigs need their coats brushed, combed, tied, or trimmed regularly.
• Nail trimming should be done once a month as needed. Nail trimming is easiest with round-bladed clippers designed for cats and rodents. Many pet stores also offer nail trimming for a small fee.
• Bathing is generally unnecessary, as guinea pigs groom themselves several times a day. If a guinea pig is visibly dirty or if it’s a long-haired breed, it can be bathed with an appropriate shampoo. After bathing, the guinea pig should be kept in a warm place, as they are prone to catching a chill when wet.
• The grease gland is a hairless area on a guinea pig’s rear, located where a tail might be if they had one. In male guinea pigs especially, this gland may become oily and require cleaning. This can be done using makeup remover and cotton wool designed for human skin.

GUINEA PIG FEEDING 

70% OF THE DIET SHOULD BE DRIED HAY
Scientifically, the guinea pig belongs to the suborder Hystricomorpha. This makes them herbivores, specifically plant-eaters, with a diet that consists mainly of hay. Guinea pigs should not consume any animal protein.
A good-quality hay should make up at least 70% of a guinea pig's diet. This hay can be a mix of timothy grass or other types of hay grasses. Hay should be available to guinea pigs at all times—they can never have too much.
High-quality dried hay doesn’t produce dust, and it only has the pleasant scent of dried hay. Good-quality hay is packaged in a way that allows a little airflow to prevent mold while keeping it from drying out excessively.
At home, if stored too openly, hay may become dusty, hard, and lose its flavor, so it’s best to store it in its original bag in a dry place. Alternatively, you can store it in a container with a lid, a storage box, or something similar that makes it easy to dispense.

20% COMPLETE FEED
In addition to hay, guinea pigs need a complete feed. There are many types of complete feeds on the market; here are some tips on choosing the right one:

• Grain-free is recommended. Grains are high in carbohydrates, which can lead to unnecessary weight gain. Choose a complete feed without grains.
• No additives, no sugar. Some feeds contain colorful pellets that are only for visual appeal, made with unnecessary dyes. Some also have added sugar for flavor. Choose feeds for your guinea pig that are 100% natural, without unnecessary additives or added sugar.
• Grain mixtures are fatty. Grain mixtures aren’t suitable for a guinea pig’s diet except as occasional treats—they are too fatty for regular meals and contain too little fiber.
• Fiber content is essential. Both long and short fibers are vital in guinea pig diets because their digestive tracts are long and somewhat sluggish. They lack the muscles to push food through, so new food pushes the old forward. Fasting doesn’t suit guinea pigs for this reason. Exercise also impacts digestion: lack of movement can cause gas and constipation.
  Long fibers aid digestion by helping move food through the intestines. Too little fiber slows food movement, which may lead to constipation and painful gas. You might notice softer, clumped stools, indicating fiber deficiency.
  Short fibers go to the cecum, where guinea pigs produce soft, sticky cecal droppings, or “night feces.” Guinea pigs eat these directly to recycle essential vitamins, bacteria, yeasts, and amino acids. Don’t be alarmed if you see a guinea pig eating its droppings—this is a healthy, essential habit.
• Pelleted food is preferred. Guinea pigs will pick out the tastiest bits if they can, leading to unbalanced nutrition. Pellets ensure each piece is nutritionally identical, preventing selective eating and keeping nutrition consistent. Pellets are also easy to portion out!
• Preparation matters. Most pellets for small pets are prepared at 150–160°C, which can destroy some nutrients. High-quality feeds like CUNIPIC’s Alpha Pro pellets are made at around 110°C, preserving nutrients so the guinea pig can benefit fully from the food.
• Nutritional values for complete feed: Below are recommended values, with (in parentheses) the values of CUNIPIC Alpha Pro Adult Guinea Pig feed:
  - Crude fat 2% or less (CUNIPIC 2%)
  - Crude fiber 16% or more (CUNIPIC 25–27%)
  - Crude protein for growing or pregnant guinea pigs, around 18%, and for adults, about 13% (CUNIPIC 14%)

8% VEGETABLES AND FRESH FOOD
In addition to hay and complete feed, around 8% of a guinea pig’s diet can be fresh foods like vegetables, root vegetables, and fruits. In the summer, you can gather dandelions, plantains, fireweed, grass, chickweed, and other garden plants. Make sure to pick plants from clean areas, away from city centers and roadsides.

2% TREATS
You can offer treats like CUNIPIC Alpha Pro Snack pellets that are specially made for guinea pigs.

GUINEA PIG TEETH 

A guinea pig's front and back teeth grow 1–2 mm per week throughout its lifetime, so they need constant work to maintain the proper length. Jaw movements and the shape of food affect how teeth wear down, as guinea pigs use their mouths differently depending on what they’re eating. Studies by the British Small Animal Veterinary Association indicate that many dental and digestive issues in guinea pigs stem from a grain-based diet.
A guinea pig's molars and premolars have evolved specifically for eating hay. This is another reason it’s important for hay to be available at all times. Additionally, it’s beneficial to provide branches from deciduous trees and other hard items to chew on—edible activity toys for small pets, such as those from the Cunipic Naturaliss series, are fun options!
If the teeth don’t wear down properly, the result can be molar or premolar spikes or overgrowth of the front teeth. Dental problems always require the help of a veterinarian. It’s not advisable to try trimming the teeth yourself, as there is a risk of breaking the tooth deep into the root.

GUINEA PIG AND VITAMIN C 

A guinea pig cannot produce vitamin C in its body, so it must be provided daily throughout its life. The recommended dosage for a healthy adult guinea pig is 10–30 mg per kilogram of body weight per day. A sick, pregnant, or nursing guinea pig may need up to 50 mg per kilogram per day.
There are both liquid and powdered vitamin C supplements available for guinea pigs. The liquid vitamin can be applied to a piece of cucumber or added to drinking water. However, the effectiveness of the vitamin halves within 24 hours in water, and it may be challenging to monitor the exact intake. Additionally, liquid vitamin C is slightly sour, so some guinea pigs may not like it. Often, powdered vitamin C is more popular. You’ll find out your guinea pig’s preference over time.
You can give a vitamin C supplement even if the guinea pig is eating pellets that already contain vitamin C. Other supplements can be given based on the guinea pig’s life stage and diet.

GUINEA PIG REPRODUCTION 

The estrous cycle in guinea pigs lasts approximately 14–15 days, and the gestation period is 63–70 days. Males reach sexual maturity at around 10 weeks, and females even earlier, as young as 5 weeks. However, the ideal age for the first breeding is 6–7 months.
Guinea pigs have only two teats, so litters are small, averaging 2–6 pups, with four being typical. Birth weights vary between 40–100 g. At birth, the pups are well-developed, with fur, open eyes, and the ability to hear. They begin eating solid food within just a few days.
Pups can be weaned from the mother at five weeks of age and when they weigh at least 300 g.

When a small, adorable puppy arrives at home, the owner embarks on a rewarding but also demanding journey, requiring determination and patience. It’s time to teach the puppy basic manners, like house training and how to respond calmly to a collar, harness, and leash.

What kind of products?
For puppyhood, a puppy collar and leash are essential. It’s a good idea to have these ready even before the puppy arrives home. While a puppy collar and leash will eventually become too small, comfort and quality, just like with children's clothes, should never be compromised.

When house-training, it’s important to take the puppy outside for bathroom breaks after each meal, playtime, and nap – that means many trips outside each day since the puppy mostly just eats, plays, and sleeps. Puppies can’t hold their bladder for long, so getting outside quickly is key. A collar that slips on quickly can be a big help.

The ideal puppy collar is light, like one made from nylon, and as inconspicuous as possible. A quick-release buckle is a great choice for ease, though a standard buckle works too. Never use a choke or semi-choke collar for a puppy – a simple collar is best.

It's also good to have a harness for the puppy, especially for longer walks. Why both? A collar works well for quick bathroom breaks, but a harness is more ergonomic for the neck and back during longer walks. Puppies are full of energy and curiosity, often darting to the end of the leash to investigate, and a harness distributes any pressure from leash pulls more evenly over the body.

A lightweight leash, such as a nylon leash with a small, light clasp, works well for puppies. A retractable leash is not suitable yet. The puppy should first learn to walk properly on a regular leash, as the “freedom” of retractable leashes can teach the dog it’s okay to roam up to five or even eight meters from the owner. Retractable leashes have their place later on, once leash manners are established.

How to introduce the collar?
For puppies, collars and other accessories are still unfamiliar and might seem like toys. Owners should be gently assertive, teaching the puppy that these items should be treated respectfully. Collars and leashes are not toys to be chewed or tugged on, so they should never be used during play.

The rule of thumb in dog training is that it should never involve slapping or negativity. Training is based on positive reinforcement – praising the dog enthusiastically when they do something right and ignoring unwanted behavior. Many puppies respond well to small treats as encouragement to learn.

For the first few tries, put the collar on the puppy slightly loose rather than tight. When walking, the collar should be snug enough for two adult fingers to fit between the collar and the puppy’s neck – adjust the collar as the puppy grows.

Initially, the collar (or harness) should only be worn for short periods, gradually increasing as the puppy becomes accustomed to it. At first, the puppy might dislike wearing the collar: “What on earth is this strap on me? Yuck, I want it off!” The puppy might scratch at its neck or try to chew the collar, but patience will pay off. Only reward the puppy when it calms down and behaves as desired – then it’s time for lots of praise and a treat.

If the puppy is wary of the collar or harness, start by letting it sniff the equipment, then offer a treat, sniff again, offer a treat through the collar, sniff again, and then gently slip the collar on while offering a treat. Praise the puppy when it cooperates.

Once the puppy is okay with the collar, it’s time to teach it that the collar can restrict movement. Hold the collar and gently support the puppy’s chest, pulling the collar lightly so the puppy feels a small amount of pressure on its neck. Gradually, this sensation becomes familiar, making leash training easier.

Never pull or lift a puppy by the collar, as this can injure the neck muscles, trachea, and other sensitive structures – even with a fully grown dog, let alone a small puppy.

With daily training, the puppy will soon learn that the collar is a sign of something exciting: putting on a collar or harness means an adventure outdoors awaits – and what could be better! Before long, the puppy will be thrilled at the sight of its gear and ready to make these items part of its daily routine.

FINNERO Products for Puppies

FINNERO BAMBINO collar is crafted from woven tape, making it very soft, lightweight, flexible, and comfortable on a puppy’s neck. It’s perfect as a first collar for puppies and suitable for small adult dogs as well. SEE MORE >

FINNERO BAMBINO leash is intended for a puppy as a first leash for outdoor activities and learning on a leash. There is a small nickel-plated pistol lock at the end of the leash, with which the harness is attached to the collar or harness. SEE MORE >

FINNERO LIGHT harness is made of breathable and slightly stretchy 100% polyester MESH fabric. The harness is very easy to put on and take off, with a quick-release buckle on the back. The LIGHT harness is a safe choice for puppies learning to wear a harness, as it evenly distributes pressure around the body.
SEE MORE >

Rabbits are extremely popular pets around the world, and for good reason. They are a bit like small dogs: intelligent, full of personality, social, energetic – and incredibly cute!

Often, a rabbit is acquired as the only rabbit in a household, but in the wild, rabbits live in loose communities, not as loners. If you’re considering getting two rabbits, the best option would be a female and a neutered male, introduced to each other at a young age. An adult rabbit might be so territorial that it won’t accept a same-sex companion in its space at all.

There are many different types of rabbits

There are dozens of rabbit breeds and different breeds can interbreed.

Rabbit breeds are classified according to breed standards into different groups based on size and coat type. For example, dwarf breeds like the Netherland Dwarf weigh well under a kilogram, while giant breeds like the Flemish Giant can weigh up to 9 kg or more. Although there is a wide range of sizes, colors, coat types, and ear lengths, the basic care of all rabbits is the same.

A rabbit's lifespan is usually 6–9 years, but in the right conditions, a rabbit can live to be over 10 years old.

Pet rabbits have wild rabbit instincts

Wild rabbits live in large communities and create their own territories, which can be well over 20 hectares in suitable conditions. Pet rabbits also have wild rabbit instincts, so they too will form their territory. A pet rabbit's territory might be a designated enclosure, a room, or even the entire home – depending on what space the owner can provide.

Wild rabbits mark their territory using scent glands, urine, and droppings. If you see your rabbit rubbing its chin on a chair leg, it’s marking its territory, as scent glands in the rabbit’s lower jaw allow it to mark specific places and objects. Especially during the mating season, and other times, unneutered male rabbits might enthusiastically spray urine quite high. Additionally, a rabbit may mark its boundaries with droppings. The tendency to mark territory varies widely among rabbits—some are highly active in marking, while others don't engage in it at all. Both the intensity of the scent and the size of the scent glands can also differ from one rabbit to another. Fortunately, rabbit marking scents are usually undetectable to humans, but if a male rabbit is overly enthusiastic about marking his territory, neutering may help calm his instincts.

Tunnels and burrows – is there anything better?

Rabbits love digging! In the wild, rabbits dig tunnels with nesting chambers, so pet rabbits also follow their wild instincts by digging or at least trying to dig. They may vigorously scratch carpets and floors with their front paws, even if they can’t dig through laminate flooring. It would be wonderful to provide your rabbit with a deep digging box, perhaps filled with peat, where it could create more than just a crumpled carpet and floor noise.

Since tunnels, chambers, and nests are appealing and natural for rabbits, you can offer them various tubes, canopies, boxes, and huts where they feel safe. Remember to ensure that the nest places you provide are safe and sturdy enough for the rabbit. The best options are various tubes, huts, and nests designed specifically for rabbits, which are widely available in pet markets.

If you let your rabbit play outside in an enclosure without a floor, there is a great risk that the rabbit will dig a tunnel to escape. Therefore, an outdoor enclosure should have a mesh floor, or the edges of the enclosure should be buried deep into the ground. It's also good to have a roof on the enclosure – many birds of prey, foxes, and cats find rabbits an irresistibly tempting prey. The enclosure should always have hay and water available, as well as at least one roofed hut.

Do you speak rabbit?

Rabbits have their own language, which we humans can learn to interpret. Remember Disney’s Thumper rabbit, who thumped the ground with his hind leg? This is perhaps the most well-known rabbit gesture. A thump can indicate excitement, but it often serves as a rabbit's way of warning the community about an approaching predator or something else that scares the rabbit.

In a rabbit community, rabbits calm each other and strengthen their bonds by grooming each other's fur. If your rabbit does this to you, be happy: the rabbit considers you part of its community.

A rabbit might nudge you with its nose to get attention or perhaps a treat. On the other hand, it might also mean that the rabbit wants to get out of your lap – the interpretation of this gesture depends a bit on the situation.

Side leaps, high jumps, and crazy dashes indicate that your rabbit is in an especially joyful mood. When a small rabbit’s soul is full of energy and joy, it just can't stay in one place!

A rabbit can also show its displeasure. If it swats at you with its front paws like a boxer and even growls, it's strongly telling you to back off immediately. And you should, as a frightened or protective rabbit might even bite if cornered. Typically, such aggressive behavior is due to an unusual situation – by nature, a rabbit is not an aggressive animal. Perhaps your rabbit is extremely timid and just needs time, love, and patience? It’s also good to check if the rabbit has any pain that you haven’t noticed before.

When a rabbit is calm and feels safe, it might roll onto its side or even onto its back. Exposing its belly shows great trust. If you also hear your rabbit quietly grinding its teeth with contentment at the same time, it’s in a particularly blissful state.

Rabbit behavior includes many other gestures and sounds – you’ll learn to read your own rabbit’s "small talk" as you spend time with it daily.

Cage, enclosure, or total freedom?

A rabbit is an active and curious creature. In fact, movement is important for its digestion: too little activity can cause constipation in rabbits.

Constantly keeping such a busy and personable animal in a cage leads to a depressed and frustrated bunny. So, let your rabbit roam freely as much as possible every day. It doesn’t need to occupy the entire house, but it would be great to give it a room or two of safe space to explore.

However, a cage or enclosure is often necessary – it’s a safe place for the rabbit when the rest of the family is at work or school. It’s also the most logical place to keep the rabbit's water bottle, food dishes, nesting hut, hay, and litter box. Nesting huts can be placed elsewhere in the home too – variety is nice.

For a rabbit weighing 2–3 kg, the cage or enclosure should be 120 x 50 cm, and for a rabbit weighing 3–4 kg, it should be 140 x 50 cm. For giant breeds, even larger. You can never offer your rabbit too much space.

Rabbit equipment

You can get all kinds of fun things for your rabbit, from hammocks to rabbit toys, but at least these basics should be provided: a water bottle, a food dish, a hay rack, a nesting hut, and bedding or rag rugs for the living area floor.

A rabbit is naturally clean and can easily learn to use a litter box. Open cat litter boxes are popular among rabbits. A suitable bedding for the litter box might be Cunipic paper pellets – with some experimentation, you’ll find what works best.

What makes a home safe for a rabbit?

Curiosity leads rabbits to explore their environment by nibbling on anything they come across. Maybe an electric cord feels like a crispy branch? Or could that houseplant make a good snack? It's important to ensure that there’s nothing within the rabbit’s reach that could cause stomach troubles.

Other things that can be harmful or dangerous to a rabbit include open doors that invite escape, drafts that can cause colds, insecticides, and pets that might harm the rabbit. Excessive heat or humidity is also harmful. Creating suitable conditions isn’t rocket science – common sense and forethought are key.

What does a rabbit eat?

The rabbit's diet: 70% hay, 20% complete feed, 8% fresh food, 2% treats.

Optimal values for rabbit nutrition:

• Calcium 0.6-1%
• Phosphorus 0.4-0.8%
• Calcium:phosphorus ratio 2:1
• Fat 1-4%
• Fiber at least 16%
• Proteins 12-16%

70% Hay

Rabbits are hay-eaters, so hay is their main food. Studies show that rabbits eat more than 80 times a day, and to keep their digestion working properly, they must have dry hay available at all times. Dry hay typically refers to timothy hay, which can be thick-stemmed hay from the first cut of summer or leafier hay from the autumn harvest. Dry hay can be pure timothy hay, grassy meadow hay, or a mix that includes wild plants, herbs, flowers, or leaves. A tasty and high-quality option is alpine hay. The Cunipic series offers Naturaliss Alpine Hay, sourced from the clean mountain meadows of the Pyrenees, containing over 45 different types of grasses.

Whatever type of hay it is, the main thing is that it's of good quality, dust-free, mold-free, and tasty.

20% Complete Feed

There are many different types of complete feeds for rabbits. The most recommended are grain-free options, whose nutritional content meets the optimal values mentioned above.

Complete feed can be pelleted or a mixture of various plant-based ingredients. Both are fine, or you can combine both types for variety.

8% Fresh Food

Rabbits love fresh vegetables and fruits. Start introducing fresh food to a baby rabbit when it’s 12–16 weeks old.

An adult rabbit’s daily diet can include carrots, leaves, dandelions, herbs, and small pieces of fruit, but avoid giving too much sweet or starchy food. Avoid cabbage as well; it often causes stomach trouble in rabbits.

Always provide fresh food that’s been thoroughly washed. Check with your vet before picking wild herbs, and always choose those growing in pollution-free areas.

2% Treats

While it might be tempting to spoil your rabbit with treats, remember that treats should only make up a small portion of its diet. Offer them in moderation and always choose healthy, rabbit-safe options.

Water

Rabbits must always have access to water, which should be fresh and clean. The best way to ensure this is by providing water through a water bottle.

Fiber and Rabbits

Fiber is crucial for rabbits. Rabbits have a large and "lazy" digestive system that lacks significant muscular function to move food mass forward in the intestines. Dry hay is rich in long fibers that help with this process. Fiber helps move food mass through the intestines and keeps digestion running smoothly.

A diet with insufficient fiber can slow down the movement of food mass in the intestines, potentially leading to constipation and gas-related stomach pain. Clumped, looser-than-normal droppings can also indicate a lack of fiber.

In addition to long fibers, herbivores need short fibers, which are directed to the cecum. In the cecum, nutrients are stored in the feces. Herbivores eat these so-called cecotropes/night droppings to reabsorb the essential nutrients – it’s completely normal for a rabbit to occasionally eat its own droppings.

Dental Health

Rabbits' continuously growing teeth need constant work to stay healthy. When eating dry hay, rabbits move their jaws in a way that ideally wears down their teeth. You can often offer hard items for rabbits to chew on; leafy branches are more suitable, while dried bread should be offered less frequently (as it often contains a lot of grains and salt). However, the most important support for managing tooth growth is hay.

Other Rabbit Care Tips

• Nail trimming should be done as needed, usually every 3–4 weeks. The best tools for this are nail scissors designed for cats and rodents.
• Brushing may be necessary, especially during shedding seasons, but many rabbits enjoy brushing at other times too. Long-haired breeds require regular grooming. Angora rabbits also need to be sheared regularly.
• Ear cleaning is done as needed. If there is a lot of wax in the ear canals and the ears have a bad smell, veterinary assistance is required.

Breeding

Breeding rabbits should be done thoughtfully, ensuring that there will be a home for every baby bunny. If a male and female rabbit are kept together, the male will immediately mate with the female after the birth of the young, which is extremely demanding for the mother rabbit. The most responsible action is to sterilize either both or at least the male to avoid continuous litters.

Rabbits do not have a regular heat cycle, so they can become pregnant at any time, even immediately after giving birth. Rabbits reach sexual maturity at a very young age, just a few months old. However, the first mating should be done when the female is nearing a year old, depending on the breed, and the male is over seven months old.

The gestation period is about 30 days, after which the female gives birth to 1-8 blind and helpless kits, depending on the breed. Smaller breeds typically have larger litters than larger ones. The female creates a nest from fur and hay, in which she gives birth to her litter.

Weaning begins around six weeks of age, when the kits are separated from their mother and placed in their own spaces to learn how to grow into adult rabbits. The young rabbits can move to their new homes when they are eight weeks old.

Enjoy your time with your rabbits!

Cats are endlessly curious and adventurous creatures, so outdoor activities are an excellent way to provide your cat with ample stimulation and mental exercise. Outdoor adventures enrich both the pet's and the owner's life, as long as they are done safely and with the cat's well-being in mind.

A cat enjoys the outdoors in many ways 

While you can provide plenty of activities indoors, outdoor time is not strictly necessary for a cat. However, a cat enjoys the outdoors because it can explore the environment, smell interesting scents, and observe its surroundings. It follows birds, butterflies, and other small animals, just like its ancestors and the wide family of felines. Different surfaces, such as grass, sand, and trees, also offer intriguing sensory experiences and a change from the indoor environment.

Outdoor activities can also reduce a cat's stress and thereby promote its mental well-being. For physical health, outdoor activities are equally important—after all, exercise is beneficial for everyone. Additionally, outdoor moments can deepen the bond between the cat and its owner, as any time spent together enhances mutual trust and affection.

Harnesses - the safest way to enjoy the outdoors

Even though outdoor activities are beneficial in many ways, it is crucial to ensure the cat's safety. A cat wandering freely alone is at risk of being hit by a car, encountering predators, or getting injured in many other ways. Cats also pose a significant threat to birds and other small wildlife. Particularly during breeding and nesting seasons, a cat’s natural hunting instinct can be devastating to wildlife.

The safest way to enjoy the outdoors with a cat is to use a harness or build an enclosure where the cat cannot wander off on its own.

How to acclimate your cat to a harness and the outdoors

1. Choose the right harness

The first step is to choose a suitable harness for your cat. The harness should be comfortable, sturdy, and properly fitted to your cat. It’s important to ensure the harness is neither too tight nor too loose. A well-fitting harness prevents the cat from escaping but does not restrict its movements.

2. Acclimate to the harness indoors

Start by acclimating your cat to the harness indoors, where it feels safe. Show the harness to your cat and let it sniff and explore it. You can give your cat treats near the harness so it associates the harness with positive experiences. Once the cat is familiar with the harness, try putting it on gently and calmly, so the cat doesn’t get scared. Initially, keep the harness on for only short periods and reward the cat with treats or play.

Repeat putting on the harness daily, gradually increasing the time the cat spends wearing it. This way, the cat will get used to the harness and learn that it’s not a threat.

3. Acclimate to the leash

When the cat is comfortable in the harness, you can attach a lightweight leash. Let the cat walk around with the leash indoors. Allow it to explore and move freely, but keep the leash loose so the cat doesn’t feel restricted. Gradually extend the walking time with the leash and practice gentle guiding. Let the cat determine the direction and pace to ensure it feels secure.

4. First outdoor experiences

Once the cat is fully accustomed to the harness and leash indoors, you can move to the outdoors. Choose a calm and safe place for the first outdoor experiences, such as your yard or a quiet park area. Avoid noisy and busy places that might frighten the cat. Keep the first outdoor sessions short, only a few minutes long. Allow the cat to explore the environment at its own pace and ensure it always has the option to return inside if it feels uncomfortable. Continue to reward the cat with treats and praise to associate outdoor time with positive experiences.

5. Lengthening outdoor sessions

When the cat is comfortable being outside for short periods, you can gradually lengthen the outdoor sessions and explore new places. Always keep an eye on the cat and its reactions. If the cat appears scared or anxious, return to a safer environment and shorten the outdoor time. Continue regular outdoor sessions so the cat remains accustomed to being outside and wearing the harness. This also helps to establish a routine, so the cat knows what to expect.

Remember, a cat’s personality matters. Not all cats may enjoy the outdoors equally. Some may be timid or fearful in new environments, so give your cat time to get used to the outdoors at its own pace.

FINNERO harnesses for cats

In the pictures of this blog, Viivi the cat is wearing FINNERO LIGHT and FINNERO HALI harnesses, which are great for cats. Check out our harnesses:

• FINNERO LIGHT
• FINNERO HALI

Enjoy your outdoor adventures!

Playing with dogs is fun but also important for their physical and mental well-being. Two very popular toys that provide hours of entertainment and exercise are the floating water toy and the fabric tug toy.

Floating Water Toy

The floating water toy is perfect for dogs who love swimming. Whenever you're by the water, the floating toy will keep your water-loving dog's mind active, and your dog will get effective exercise.
Popular toys are made from durable, floating materials such as Thermo-Plastic-Rubber (TPR). It is good to choose a toy that is shaped so that it fits comfortably in the dog's mouth. That way, fetching goes smoothly!

Advantages of the floating toy:

• Exercise: Swimming is an excellent full-body workout. It helps develop muscles and endurance.
• Cooling down: On hot days, playing in the water helps to keep your dog cool.
• Mental alertness: Fetching in the water offers your dog a fun challenge and keeps their mind sharp.

Tug Toy

Tug toys made from durable ropes or fabrics are excellent for interactive play. Many prefer cotton, which is a natural fiber.

Advantages of the tug toy:

• Strengthening the bond: Tugging strengthens the bond between the dog and the owner through close interaction and positive experiences.
• Training: Tug toys can be used to teach commands like "drop," "take," "fetch," etc., improving obedience skills.
• Dental hygiene: Chewing and tugging on the tug toy can help clean your dog's teeth and massage their gums.

Tips for safe play:

• Always supervise your dog during playtime
• Choose toys that are appropriate for your dog's size and strength
• Regularly check the condition of the toys and replace them if they are damaged
• Use toys made for pets

FINNERO options:

• FINNERO WAVE, floating dog toy
• FINNERO TAAVI, dog tug toy

And now... unleash the fun!

Birch Balm is made from tar extracted from birch bark and other natural ingredients. It is known for its versatile health benefits, even in the world of pets. Birch Balm is a traditional remedy that offers a natural and effective way to treat many animal skin and health issues. In this blog, we will explore the benefits and uses of Birch Balm for animals, although it is also excellent for human use!

What can Birch Balm be used for?

1. Wounds and scratches: Birch Balm is an excellent choice for treating wounds and scratches in all kinds of animals. Its antiseptic properties prevent infections and promote wound healing.
2. Skin inflammations and irritations: The anti-inflammatory and soothing properties of Birch Balm can help alleviate skin inflammations and irritations, such as hot spots and allergic reactions.
3. Insect bites and stings: Birch Balm helps relieve the itching and swelling caused by insect bites and stings in animals, such as dogs and horses.
4. Paws and hooves: Birch Balm is also well-suited for treating the paws and hooves. It helps soften dry and cracked paws and hooves and protects them from external irritants.
5. Muscle and joint pain: Birch Balm can be used to alleviate muscle and joint pain in animals. It helps relax sore muscles and reduce inflammation in the joints.
6. Snowballing: Birch Balm helps prevent snowballing in dogs' paws in winter.

How to use Birch Balm?

1. Treating wounds and scratches: Clean the wound or scratch thoroughly before applying Birch Balm. Apply a small amount of balm directly to the affected area. Repeat the treatment as needed several times a day until the wound heals.
2. Treating skin inflammations and irritations: Apply a thin layer of Birch Balm to the inflamed or irritated skin area. Use it regularly 1-3 times a day until symptoms subside.
3. Insect bites and stings: Apply Birch Balm directly to the bite or sting. It helps relieve itching and reduce swelling. Repeat as necessary.
4. Paw and hoof care: Massage Birch Balm into dry and cracked paws or hooves. Use it regularly, especially in winter and dry seasons when paws and hooves are more susceptible to damage. Use daily or as needed.
5. Relieving muscle and joint pain: Massage Birch Balm into sore muscles and joints to alleviate pain and inflammation. Repeat the treatment as needed a few times a day.

The benefits of being resin-free

FINNERO BETULA Birch Balm does not contain resin. This is great, as some animals can be allergic to the resin. Resin allergy can cause various symptoms in animals, such as itching, redness, swelling, and skin irritation. In severe cases, it can lead to blisters and secondary infections due to constant scratching and licking. The use of resin-free products such as FINNERO BETULA Birch Balm is highly recommended to avoid allergic reactions.

Tips!

• Birch Balm is safe when used externally and in recommended amounts. However, significant overuse can cause skin irritation or sensitivity in some animals. If you notice any adverse reactions, reduce the frequency of use or discontinue use.
• If ingested in large quantities, Birch Balm can cause mild gastrointestinal symptoms, such as vomiting, diarrhea, and drooling. It is important to prevent animals from licking off too much balm, especially from easily accessible areas like paws.
• Apply the balm to areas where the animal cannot easily reach with their tongue, such as the back or upper limbs. When using the Birch Balm on paws or other areas the animal can lick, you can cover the area, use a dog cone, or monitor the pet until the balm is absorbed.
• Birch Balm has a bad taste, which is actually a good thing! The unpleasant taste reduces the animal's desire to lick the balm off treated areas. The taste of birch balm comes from its natural ingredients, such as birch tar, which can have a strong and unpleasant flavor.

FINNERO BETULA Birch Balm is a versatile and natural remedy that provides effective relief for various skin and health issues in animals. Its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing properties make it a valuable addition to animal care products. Try Birch Balm on your animals and see for yourself how this traditional natural product can help improve their health and well-being.

See for more, FINNERO BETULA >

Caring for your dog's nail health is part of a dog owner's daily routine. But what does it actually involve?

Monitoring

It's a good idea to regularly check the length of your dog's nails. This often happens almost automatically while petting your dog: a relaxed pup enjoying a belly rub won’t even notice when you discreetly check the condition of its paws. It’s important to teach your dog from a young age to allow you to touch its paws and nails—this will make paw care much easier when the dog is an adult.

When are the nails too long?

There are breed-specific and individual differences in the shapes of nails and paw pads, but as a general rule, the nails are too long if they touch the ground when the dog is standing in a normal position.

What are the drawbacks of long nails?

Too long nails cause pain for the dog. They can twist the paw into an unnatural position or even grow into a "hook" that presses into the paw pad, causing painful sores. A well-maintained short nail is also more resistant to normal wear and tear, reducing the risk of splitting and damaging the nail’s outer layer. If your dog wears booties, excessively long nails can press uncomfortably against the bootie and even damage it.

How to trim the nails?

Dog nails are trimmed with clippers designed specifically for dogs, available in various models and sizes. For puppies, only the sharp tip of the nail should be trimmed to avoid accidents and prevent the puppy from getting scared. This way, the little puppy learns that nail care is nothing to fear. Reward the puppy with praise and treats after trimming the nails, and follow up with a fun play session. This makes the process enjoyable for the puppy and makes future nail care easier.

Depending on the size of the dog, the proper way to hold the dog varies. A small dog can be held in your lap, while a larger dog can stay on the floor. Having someone gently but firmly hold the dog can also make the trimming easier.

The outer part of a dog’s nail is made of keratin, and inside is the quick, which contains blood vessels and nerves. If you cut the nail too short, the quick will break, causing the dog momentary pain and bleeding. There are home remedies for stopping the bleeding, such as cooling the nail with snow, ice, or cold water. You can also place some potato starch or baking soda in a small bag and dip the dog's paw into it for five minutes. There are also proper products available for this issue, which you can find at petstores, veterinary clinics, and pharmacies. These can be a useful addition to your dog’s home first-aid kit! Typically, the bleeding stops quickly, but if it continues after 15 minutes, you should contact a vet.

If you accidentally cut too much, remember to stay calm. Dogs are highly sensitive to their owner’s behavior and may become even more frightened if the owner panics.

Practice makes perfect! Nail trimming isn’t rocket science, and you’ll get the hang of it if you trim a little at a time and do it often. However, if the process feels too difficult, you can visit a vet or a pet store that offers nail trimming services to ensure your dog's nails are regularly taken care of.

When the nails are the right length, your dog can walk comfortably on various surfaces, and there’s no reason to avoid using booties either.
Check out FINNERO’s selection of booties here >

One important detail in basic dog wellness is paw care. The parts of a dog's paw that require attention include the pads, paw hair, nails, and nail beds.

Pads

Pads are thick tissue on the bottom of a dog's paw. Typically, pads are black, but some puppies may have cute pink pads, which usually darken as the pads thicken over time. Healthy pads are flexible, soft, and resilient, without sores or cracks.

Pads function like shock absorbers. They cushion and reduce stress on the dog's joints, which helps prevent joint problems. Pads are crucial for a dog’s balance and movement on various surfaces. They prevent slipping and protect the dog from physical injuries, such as muscle strains from slipping. Pads are made up of connective and fatty tissues. Fatty tissue provides insulation, helping regulate the temperature of the paws, such as against the cold.

Nails and Nail Beds

Dog nails are made of keratin, the same substance as human nails. Regular trimming of dog nails is important because overgrown nails are uncomfortable and can even be painful. In the worst cases, they can twist the paw into an abnormal position or grow into a "hook" that presses against the pad, causing painful wounds. Keeping nails short also withstands normal wear better and reduces the risk of chipping, which can damage the nail's outer layer.

TIP! For more details on nail trimming, we have written a detailed guide HERE >

Basic Paw Care

Preventing problems is easier than treating them. Therefore, keeping the paws clean and inspecting them regularly is important. It is crucial to ensure that the dog does not walk on hot surfaces like summer asphalt, as this can cause severe burns. If a surface is too hot for your hand, it is too hot for the dog's pads. Avoid walking on chemicals, as substances like road salt or de-icers can be harmful to paw health, causing severe irritation and dryness.

Keeping paw hair short supports the overall condition of the pads. Long hair can become tangled, restricting normal movement of the toes. Long hair and tangles can also rub the skin, making it susceptible to various infections. Additionally, long hair is a great way to collect dirt, snow, and moisture, which poses health risks to the dog and increases cleaning needs at home. Paw hair can be trimmed best with rounded-tip dog grooming scissors or a suitably small grooming machine.

Dryness of Paws

A common issue is dryness of the paws. Quick relief can be achieved by applying moisturizer. There are numerous paw balms on the market, we warmly recommend FINNERO Betula birch salve, which can be a great help with many problems.
Paw balm is an essential supply for dogs and should be available at home, whether it is summer or winter.
Moisturizing helps, but the cause of the dryness should be identified. Perhaps the season is particularly demanding for the paws? For example, during winter months, frost and dry indoor air can cause paw dryness. Alternatively, the cause might be related to diet and a lack of fatty acids. In this case, it is good to check the dog’s diet and, if necessary, provide supplements like fish oil, which contains important omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids for the general condition of the pads.

If Problems Arise

Despite best efforts, paw problems can still occur. Common paw health issues include wounds, cracks, and various infections. Wounds can occur if the dog walks on sharp stones or other challenging surfaces. First aid involves cleaning the wound with a pet-safe antiseptic. It is good to use a protective boot while the area heals. If the wound bleeds heavily, veterinary attention is needed, and follow-up care should be done according to the veterinarian's instructions.

Infections

Dog paws can develop various infections due to several reasons. Infections can be triggered by poorly managed wounds, food allergies, structural defects, improper posture, certain diseases, fungal infections, and mange. A relatively common issue, especially in heavy-set dogs, is called "false pad", which can be exacerbated by overweight and/or incorrect paw posture. A false pad forms when the pad and the hairy part of the paw both touch the ground. The skin of the hairy part thickens, the hair wears away, and the skin starts to resemble a pad—hence the name false pad. Despite its appearance, the skin of a false pad still has hair follicles that secrete sebum and sweat. When these cannot be expelled, the situation can develop into an inflammatory reaction called furunculosis, which always requires veterinary evaluation.

Boots as a Great Help

One way to ensure paw well-being is to use proper dog boots. Dog boots are becoming increasingly popular among dog owners due to their many benefits.

• One of the main purposes of dog boots is to protect the pads from extreme weather conditions. During winter, paws can suffer from frostbite if the pads are not protected from snow and ice. Boots also prevent snow from packing between the pads.
• Similarly, in hot weather, dogs can burn their paws on hot asphalt and sand. Boots provide insulation and protect paws from heat.
• Dog boots also protect dogs from rough terrain. Dogs love to explore and run, but rough surfaces like gravel and rocks can cause injuries to their paws. Boots with durable soles offer protection against cuts and abrasions.
• Some dogs may be sensitive to walking on certain surfaces or in unfamiliar environments. Boots can provide a sense of security, reducing anxiety.
• Additionally, boots can improve hygiene and cleanliness. They prevent dirt from being carried into the home, reducing cleaning needs.
• Most importantly, boots can protect paws from bacteria and infections, maintaining paw health. Cleanliness is particularly important if the dog has wounds or other issues on its paws.

Various types of dog boots are available, each designed for specific purposes. You can explore FINNERON's boot selection HERE >

Walking on a leash doesn’t go perfectly right away with a young puppy. The scents of the world and all sorts of other incredibly interesting things capture the curious little one’s attention—and the leash inconveniently limits the puppy's frantic jumping from one side of the road to the other.

Training a small puppy to walk on a leash requires patience and consistency from the owner, as the puppy cannot immediately understand why it is not allowed to dart off in different directions when outside. The feeling of pressure from the leash might confuse the little dog, making it pull even harder—or sit down puzzled, pondering the situation. However, leash walking is something a dog must learn. It is important to be able to walk with the dog in busy areas without the dog constantly dashing off after everything that catches its attention, which at worst can cause dangerous situations or at least annoyed glances from passersby.

Walking on a Leash

A puppy’s energy to pull on the leash can be endless. There goes a squirrel, there goes another dog! It would be an absolute must to investigate everything right now. However, the dog must learn that it should not pull on the leash, but instead slow down when it feels the leash tighten. How can this be achieved?

The basis of good leash behavior is teaching the dog that it is rewarding to stay close to the owner. Training should ideally start indoors—and without a leash. The puppy is allowed to roam freely in the house, but whenever it comes to the owner and makes eye contact, i.e., establishes contact, it is praised—with words and small treats to reinforce the behavior. Training can be intensified by taking a few steps away from the dog, and when the dog follows, it is praised again. You can repeat this exercise several times: sometimes taking more steps away, sometimes fewer, and praising the dog every time it follows in the same direction as the owner. The training should not be too intense, and it’s important to take breaks.

While walking outside with a puppy, situations will undoubtedly arise where the puppy walks so far from the handler that the leash tightens. Scolding the dog doesn’t help, and you should never pull the dog by the leash. The dog does not learn anything from the owner pulling on the leash, but in the worst case, pulling can cause serious damage to the dog's neck and spine.

Instead, stop and wait. When the dog turns to look at the handler in the eyes, i.e., when it makes contact, the dog should be rewarded with praise and treats. Then, continue walking until the same situation arises again. And again.

You can also introduce a command for this situation, for example, saying "wait" every time you stop and wait for the dog to stop and make contact. Over time, the dog will learn to stop and look at the handler whenever it feels the leash tightening or hears the command "wait."

The keywords in dog training are consistency and patience. Every walk is a good opportunity to teach the dog a bit more of what has been practiced. With consistent training, and always respecting the animal's natural behavior, you can create a well-behaved dog companion with whom walks are fun and safe for everyone.

What Kind of Leash for a Puppy?

For a puppy leash, a light option, such as a nylon leash with a lightweight clip, works well. The length of a puppy leash should be such that the dog can move a bit further away from its owner to do its business in peace, but still be easily controlled and brought closer when needed. Typically, puppy leashes range from 120 to 180 cm (47"-70") in length.

A retractable leash is not suitable for a small puppy. It is better for the puppy to first learn how to walk properly with a basic leash, as the "freedom" provided by retractable leash only teaches the dog that it’s okay to run in different directions, even five or eight meters away from the owner. The time for using retractable leashes will come later, once the basic principles of leash walking have been learned.

FINNERO Products for Puppies

The BAMBINO leash is made from woven tape, which is very soft and lightweight. It is a great choice for walking with a small puppy. CHECK IT OUT >

The BAMBINO collar is made from woven tape, which is very soft, lightweight, flexible, and comfortable on a puppy's neck. It can be used as a first collar for puppies and for small adult dogs. CHECK IT OUT >

The LIGHT harness is made from breathable and slightly stretchy 100% polyester MESH fabric. The harness is very easy to put on and take off, with a buckle closure on the back. The LIGHT harness is a safe option for puppies learning to wear a harness, as the pressure is evenly distributed around the dog's body. CHECK IT OUT >

Fireworks are spectacular to watch for many people. Impressive, flourishing, colorful, and smoky fireworks are a particularly big part of the New Year's celebration. Fireworks may also be present at private events, like weddings. So, there’s no shortage of noise and flashes. However, for many pets, and even wildlife, fireworks can be an incredibly frightening experience. How can we help?

How Do I Know if My Pet Is Afraid?

Each animal reacts to fear in its own way. For dogs, fear can be indicated if the dog seeks out its owner – or alternatively hides in the farthest corner of the house. Loss of appetite, trembling, drooling, panting, vocalization, and restlessness can all be clear signs of fear. Essentially, any unusual behavior in an animal could be a sign of fear.

How Can I Help My Pet in a Scary Situation?

For example, it’s possible—and necessary—to prepare in advance for New Year’s fireworks. Here are a few tips from our blog on how to help your frightened pet.

Calming the Home Environment

It’s not recommended to leave a noise-sensitive pet home alone, so you can monitor its behavior. It’s also easier to distract the pet from the noises outside when the owner is present. Distractions can include chewing on a bone, using interactive toys, playing, or other enjoyable activities. Close doors and windows securely, and close the curtains to block out the flashes of fireworks. The sound of a TV or radio can help cover up the noise. If the pet wants to hide in a dark bedroom, allow it to do so.

Pets pick up a lot from their owners’ behavior, so staying calm and behaving normally helps to calm the pet too.

Moving to Another Location

If you know in advance that there will be a lot of fireworks near your home, it may be a good idea to consider heading to the peaceful countryside. If cottage life isn’t an option, check out hotel and other accommodation options. Many places offer pet-friendly, fireworks-free lodging, especially for New Year’s.

Timing Walks

In many countries, there are designated legal hours for New Year’s fireworks, and the worst noise tends to fall within these times. It’s best to avoid walking a sensitive pet during these hours and instead plan walks before or after. Unfortunately, people often ignore the general guidelines, so you might hear sporadic fireworks outside the permitted hours as well. For this reason, it’s best not to let your dog off-leash even in a fenced yard throughout New Year’s, and when out walking, ensure that the dog cannot slip out of its harness or collar and escape.

Checking Equipment

For a dog’s outdoor gear, it’s wise to use a double leash attached to both the collar and harness. This gives you an extra layer of safety in case one fails, allowing you time to react if the dog tries to bolt.

In addition to a harness, it’s a good idea to use a waist lock for harness. This goes around the dog’s waist and connects to the harness—a great safety measure for everyday use!

FINNERO RESCUE Waist Lock For Dog Harness

Using Pheromone and Natural Products

There are many natural calming products for pets available at pharmacies and pet stores. These products typically work by using calming pheromones, valerian (valeriana officinalis), or tryptophan, an amino acid that maintains serotonin production in the pet’s body. Note that it’s best to start using these products even a couple of weeks before the main event.

Compression Shirt and Half Wrap

A compression shirt is a garment sold in pet stores that fits snugly on the pet. The gentle pressure it provides can help calm the dog. It’s advisable to get the pet accustomed to the compression shirt in a stress-free environment so it doesn’t associate it with the source of fear.

As a home remedy, you can make a similar wrap using a “half wrap.” This involves gently wrapping a scarf around the pet’s body, but never too tightly to restrict movement—it should feel like a gentle hug. Like the pressure shirt, it’s good to get the pet used to the wrap in advance.

Steps for tying a half wrap:

1. Place the scarf across the pet’s chest and cross the ends over its back.
2. Bring the scarf ends down along the sides.
3. Cross the ends under the belly and bring them back up.
4. Tie the scarf on the back.

If Your Pet Escapes

If the worst happens and your pet gets away, the contact information for agencies that help in the search for lost pets is very important. Find out in advance if there are search dogs and experts near you that you can turn to in times of need.

Recover the scent!

Experts working with search dogs recommend keeping a scent sample from the pet. It's easy: put a small amount of fur in a clean, resealable bag or glass jar, then seal it tightly. For hairless pets, you can wipe the skin with a cotton pad.

You can also take a scent sample from the collar, but if the dog has run away with the collar, this won't help.

It is recommended to replace the scent sample with a new one every six months.

Managing Fear

Every pet is unique. One pet may be fearless, while another might react to the slightest sound. Helping a pet overcome the fear of new situations, sounds, and smells involves training—exposure to new things from an early age builds confidence.

Desensitizing a pet to fear is a patience-requiring process in which the pet is gradually encouraged to focus on relaxing, playing, or other positive experiences instead of fear. Learning may take time, but the owner’s commitment is well worth it.

In everyday language, it's called a hot spot; officially, it's known as a moist superficial skin infection, and even more formally as pyotraumatic dermatitis. But what exactly is it, and what causes it?

What is a Hot Spot?
A hot spot is a relatively common issue in dogs, but fortunately, it’s usually entirely treatable. It’s a skin infection that typically starts from a minor skin injury on the dog. It may begin with something like an insect bite or sting, but itching from pain, neglected coat care, or allergies can also lead the dog to lick or scratch itself. In other words, anything that makes a dog lick or scratch enough to break the skin can cause bacteria to multiply in that area, leading to infection.

Hot spots are most common in summer because bacteria thrive in warm, moist conditions. This is why hot spots often develop in dogs with thick fur, especially if they love swimming. A thick coat takes time to dry after a swim, creating a perfect environment for bacterial growth. Hot spots typically appear around the ears, neck, and hips, but they can develop anywhere — for example, on the back end if full anal glands cause irritation, leading the dog to scoot or lick the area. If left untreated, a hot spot itches and bothers the dog, causing it to scratch and lick, which can spread the infection. In advanced stages, the infected area can become painful, so it’s essential to address it as soon as it's noticed.

How is a Hot Spot Identified?
A hot spot often appears as a round, red, inflamed, or even oozing area on the skin. It can be challenging to detect a hot spot beneath the coat of a long or thick-furred dog, allowing the infection to worsen. A severely infected area will smell bad and itch intensely, and the dog’s behavior will indicate that something is wrong.

To confirm the issue, it’s best to take the dog to a veterinarian. Using a microscope, the vet can distinguish between bacteria and fungi, providing a clear diagnosis, medication, and treatment instructions for the dog.

How Can a Hot Spot Be Treated?
It’s essential to keep the infected area clean, dry, and exposed to air. Trimming the fur around the inflamed area helps keep the skin clean and airy. Preventing the dog from worsening the situation by scratching or licking the area is also important. A collar or a loosely fitting cotton garment can help keep the dog from accessing the inflamed area.

Following the veterinarian’s instructions on medication and/or medicated shampoos is crucial. Supportive care can include using products like FINNERO Betula. Patience and careful attention are necessary for hot spot treatment to ensure the skin heals fully.

Can Hot Spots Be Prevented?
Hot spots are most common in summer, especially in dogs with thick or long coats. To prevent hot spots, dry the dog’s skin and coat thoroughly after every swim. In summer, trimming or brushing the dog’s coat to keep it tangle-free and well-aired can also help.

Stay up-to-date with parasite treatments; protecting your dog from ticks, mosquitoes, and other skin-irritating insects is essential. Ear infections, anal gland issues, hip pain, and allergies can all lead a dog to lick or scratch, so treating these issues is also important.

If you suspect your dog has a hot spot, contact a veterinarian to address the problem, allowing your dog to enjoy life, swimming, and even the hot summer season without irritating, itchy skin.

Tip!
We offer FINNERO BETULA Birch Balm, an excellent supportive product for hot spot care.

It isn’t great when your male dog starts marking their territory with pee. But why on earth do they do it? Do they pee everywhere for no reason, to pass time or could it be for some other reason?

Housebreaking your dog

If a puppy has not been housebroken, you cannot expect them to be house trained when they are adults. House training your puppy is the first thing you should teach them.

Patience and consistency will be rewarded when teaching your puppy where it is appropriate for them to relieve themselves. Take your puppy outside frequently—at least every two hours—and immediately after they wake up, during and after playing, and after eating or drinking. For instance, smaller breeds have smaller bladders and higher metabolisms and require more frequent trips outside. If your dog was not house trained when they were a puppy they can take longer to be housebroken.

Separation anxiety

Separation anxiety or other similar behavioral problems can also be the reason for the dog peeing inside the home, especially if the problem only occurs when the dog is home alone. Fortunately, there are solutions to handling a dog with behavioral problems, so it is not completely impossible to completely get rid of separation anxiety over time.

Enough time outdoors

Does your dog get out often enough to relieve themselves? Depending on the dogs age, their personality and the length of the walks, the appropriate amount of time spent outdoors varies, but either way your dog should be allowed outdoors at least three times a day and preferably more often. A dog’s retention ability is not limitless, so if your dog does pee indoors especially near the front door, you should make sure your dog has enough opportunities to relieve themselves.

The lovely girl dog next door

A dog’s sense of smell is known to be unparalleled. Usually this is a good thing, but it also has its downsides. If your male dog has caught a whiff of a female dog during one of their walks or otherwise it will make their head spin. When this happens, a male dog can start to mark his territory -including indoors. The love-longing male dog can also be more restless and eat poorly.

Health reasons

Whatever the reason for marking their territory you should always rule out the possibility of illness. If the dog is drinking more than usual, they will also pee more. Continuous drinking can be a sign of illness and you should sooner rather than later take your dog to the vet.

Urinary tract problems such as urinary tract infections, continence problems that come with old age, congenital malformations and other ailments that a dog can't do anything about always require the help of a veterinarian.

Old smells

It's critically important that you truly neutralize and remove the odors from the pee or poop first, before cleaning, shampooing, or steaming your floors and carpets. Miss this odor-neutralizing step and the lingering odor will keep your pup coming back for more! Try using products for sale in pet stores meant specifically for odor removal.

Don’t punish your dog

If your dog is peeing indoors, you must remind yourself they are not intentionally trying to annoy you. A dog lives in the moment and behaves according to their instincts - marking their territory with pee is one of its natural functions

House train your dog patiently and if you're struggling to train them ask the help of a professional.

FINNERO products to the rescue!

FINNERO male belt / male wrap is needed when a male dog marks furniture, curtains, rugs, etc. This can lead to both financial and unhygienic problems, not to mention the resentment that results. The male belt is a belt-shaped, easy-to-wear male protector. Most dogs stop marking when the male belt is on when they notice that there is no sign.

See the products >

Urinary incontinence is a fairly common problem in dogs. It is different from marking, as incontinence is involuntary urination, meaning the dog is likely unaware of the issue. We have written a separate blog about marking, which you can find here >

Urinary incontinence can occur in dogs of any age, but it is most common in middle-aged and older dogs. It can affect both males and females, but it is most frequent in spayed, large female dogs.

The problem is usually noticed when the dog is sleeping. Urine may leak when the dog is in a deep sleep or when it gets up from lying down. It could be a tiny drop of urine on the floor occasionally, but it can also be more severe, causing almost the entire bladder to empty at once. But what on earth causes this?

There can be many reasons for involuntary urinary incontinence. Medical reasons may stem from abnormalities in the parts of the brain and spinal cord that control bladder function. It could be a congenital defect, and especially in older dogs, the cause may be the weakening of the muscles that retain urine in the bladder.

Urinary Incontinence in Young Dogs

In young dogs, involuntary urination can result from congenital abnormalities. The most common cause is anatomically misplaced ureters. The ureters carry urine from the kidneys to the bladder, but if one or both ureters bypass the bladder and connect to an abnormal location, such as the urethra, it can result in urinary retention problems.

Urethral sphincter mechanism incompetence is another reason that can cause urinary incontinence in young dogs. This condition usually resolves after the female dog's first heat.

There can be other reasons as well. Neurological issues and developmental disorders in the reproductive organs or bladder are possible but rarer causes of urinary incontinence.

Urinary Incontinence in Adult Dogs

There is a connection between spaying female dogs and urinary incontinence, although it is not entirely clear why spaying increases the risk of sphincter mechanism incompetence. Spaying causes hormonal and neurological changes, which may be a factor. The tissue of the urethral sphincter may become thinner, and there may be mechanical effects of spaying that make it harder to retain urine.

Incontinence in older, spayed dogs can occur months to years after spaying. The dog may urinate normally when outside but dribble more or less while resting or getting up from lying down. This condition is most common in large female dogs; medium and large female dogs are three times more likely to develop incontinence compared to smaller breeds.

A less common cause of urinary incontinence in female dogs is a condition where the vaginal opening is narrowed at the end of the urethra. In this case, urine can remain in the vagina behind the narrowed area when the dog urinates and may leak out on its own when the dog gets up from lying down.

In very old dogs, it is not entirely impossible that the dog has developed senility. In such cases, the dog cannot control its urination like it could when it was younger — it simply does not know that it is urinating.

Always Consult a Veterinarian!

If your dog is leaking urine without an obvious reason, it should always be taken to the veterinarian for a thorough examination. Only a veterinarian can rule out the possibility of urinary stones or urinary tract infections and investigate the specific cause of the incontinence.

Fortunately, there are effective treatments for urinary incontinence, so with proper treatment from a veterinarian, a dog can usually live a completely clean and happy life.

FINNERO Products for Urinary Incontinence

Treating a pet suffering from urinary incontinence with the help of a veterinarian is of utmost importance.

Sometimes the effectiveness of treatment is not immediately apparent, or despite good treatment, a few drops of urine may occasionally be on the floor. If you need to keep your home especially clean, for example, because of crawling infants on the floor, female dog heat pants or male dog belly bands can be used. These products help keep your home clean. Remember to ensure that the disposable pad or other absorbent material in the heat pants or belly band is changed to a clean one often enough.

Heat pants and belly bands are not treatments and should never replace a visit to the veterinarian, but they help maintain cleanliness inside the home.

Explore the products here >

New dog owners often wonder which is better for walking their furry friend: a collar or a harness. There’s no clear-cut answer, and in some cases, it’s best to use both.

Puppy Collar
It’s good to get a lightweight basic collar for a puppy, which can help them get used to wearing one indoors. Start by having the puppy wear the collar for short periods, gradually increasing the time as they become more comfortable with it. Initially, they may try to shake it off or scratch it with a hind leg, but in time, they’ll barely notice it.

When putting the collar on for the first time, you can encourage the puppy to come near it by offering treats through the collar. Once the puppy is comfortable, slip the collar over their head. Practice this daily until they’re used to the collar and allow you to put it on and remove it calmly. Dogs are smart; they soon learn to associate the collar with going outside, and they’ll eagerly await walks when they see the collar come out.

Adult Dog Collar
When choosing a collar for an adult dog, consider how it will be used. Will the dog be able to roam freely, or will it stay on a leash? Also, consider the dog’s behavior, neck and head structure, and coat thickness. A lightweight, fabric or nylon collar is ideal for dogs that are off-leash, as it allows for easy grabbing if needed. If the dog is leashed, it’s better to use a wide, padded collar. A width that spans two of the dog’s neck vertebrae is recommended.

A collar isn’t ideal for very lively or strong-pulling adult dogs, as tugging can strain their neck vertebrae, larynx, and surrounding areas, leading to health issues. In these cases, a harness is the right choice, as it distributes pressure more evenly on areas that can withstand it better than the neck.

Dogs with very thick fur, such as Collies, may have trouble keeping a collar on, as their narrow, tapered heads and thick neck fur can cause the collar to slip off with even a slight pull. In such cases, a harness is the best choice for walking.

Some breeds, like Greyhounds with narrow necks, often require specialized collars, such as the extra-wide Greyhound collar.

Benefits of a Harness
While a collar is quick and convenient for walks, it’s not always the best option as the only walking tool. Some dogs and situations make collars less ideal. If a dog suddenly pulls on the leash, it can cause a quick stop that puts strain on their neck, shoulders, and back. Externally, this can cause damage to their coat and skin, and internally, the muscles, vertebrae, trachea, and other neck structures can suffer from the strong tug. If a dog tends to pull on the leash or is very excitable, a well-fitting harness is a much safer, more ergonomic, and comfortable option than a collar. Training a dog not to pull deserves its own blog post!

Types of Harnesses
There are many types of harnesses designed for different purposes, including basic, pulling, running, and anti-pull harnesses. Basic harnesses are used for regular walks. Some popular options include:

• T-Harnesses: These have a chest strap running horizontally across the dog’s chest. T-harnesses are traditional and popular and work well if properly fitted. In an improperly sized harness, the chest strap may shift upwards, pressing against the dog’s trachea.
  
• Y-Harnesses: These have a Y-shaped strap running over the chest and between the front legs, allowing for freedom of movement in the shoulders and legs, making them suitable for active walks. The pressure is evenly distributed across the chest.
  
• Mesh Harnesses: In these, the dog is “dressed” in the harness, which is made mostly or entirely of durable fabric.
  
• Mesh Light Harnesses: These work similarly to mesh harnesses but have less fabric coverage.

The last two types are particularly designed for small dogs.

Other Walking Accessories
There are also pulling harnesses, running harnesses, anti-pull harnesses, head collars, and metal chain collars. Each of these has its specific purpose and is not a substitute for a basic collar or harness.

It is worth noting that products that cause pain, such as prong collars or shock collars, are prohibited according to the animal protection law of Finland and many other countries.

Check out FINNERO’s collars and harnesses!

Dogs will have their first estrous (reproductive or heat) cycle when they reach puberty. A dog's heat time or ‘’heat’’ is a female dog's rutting season, a time in which a female dog can become pregnant if it is allowed to mate with a male dog. Male dogs don’t have heat time and once they become sexually mature they can produce offspring at any time.

When is the rutting season?

On average, puberty (or sexual maturity) is reached at about 6-12 months of age, but this can vary by breed. Smaller breeds tend to have their first estrous cycle at an earlier age, while large and giant breeds may not come into heat for the first time until they reach eighteen months to two years of age. Differences between breeds are quite big - sometimes a dog can be almost two years of age before the first heat starts.

During rutting season, a female dog's behavior can change. They can be tired, in a world of their own, more restless than normal, bark more frequently, become a picky eater and when outside be especially interested in other dogs and tempting smells. They can also pee indoors even if out of character for them - the dog could during this time be subject to more time outdoors than usual. All changes in behavior are completely normal and usually the strongest changes happen during the first heat.

How long do they last?

The rutting season lasts approximately a month at a time. There are three different stages: preheat, heat and post-heat. In between heats is a rest period during which a dog cannot become pregnant. The duration of the rest period is typically six months, but it differs a lot between different dog breeds.

The first stage of the rutting season is pre-heat, which lasts from three days to about two weeks. During this period the dog’s genitals swell, the follicles develop and the bleeding related to the heat begins from the dogs vulva. It’s very individual how strong the bleeding is - in some it is barely noticeable and in others there is more mess. At this point male dogs are already interested in females, but females don’t let males get too close and reject the males attempts to mate. An unneutered male and a female experiencing preheat should not be left alone together because it is not entirely impossible that the male should impregnate the female. The female should for the entirety of the heat be kept away from unneutered males to prevent an unwanted pregnancy.

The actual heat lasts about a week. During this time the female is very submissive, and pregnancy is extremely likely. The female can be very interested in males at this time. At this stage pregnancy is very likely and if your intention is to breed puppies this is the time for it.

The last stage is post-heat. At this stage the swelling and bleeding slowly pass. During post-heat the female will no longer let the male close and reject all her suitors. The female can be more tired, but this is normal. On the other hand, if the dog starts licking more than usual, drinking more, peeing more or has higher temperature at worst they could have a uterine infection. If you suspect your dog has a uterine infection you must contact a vet posthaste. A uterine infection requires veterinary care.

If your dog has become pregnant during heat, they shall give birth 58-72 days after conception. If the dog hasn’t become pregnant it is possible that the dog can be subject to a false pregnancy. During a false pregnancy the dog's own body tricks them into thinking they are pregnant. The false pregnancy passes eventually and usually there is nothing to worry about. During a false pregnancy a female dog can carry toys more lovingly and make them a nest. The female might also produce milk, but the false pregnancy passes on its own when the aftereffects of the heat wear off.

During the rest period the dog’s hormone functions are normal and the dog cannot get pregnant until the next heat.

If you have no intention of letting your female dog have puppies, you can take them to the vet and have them sterilized. After sterilization the dog will no longer experience rutting season.

FINNERO products for heat

FINNERO heat pants are washable diapers (“panties”) for dogs in heat. It is put on the dog so that your surfaces and interior textiles are protected from the bleeding in your home and on the go. The heat panties also work with urinary incontinence for neutered females or elderly dogs.

If you have a female dog, it is recommended you get the heat pants early so the dog can get used to them before the heat. By putting the heat pants on the dog for a little while at a time and rewarding them the heat will pass without any problems.

See FINNERO heat pants here >